The ViewLondon Review
Put Gigalum into Google and you find websites about dogging in the Hebrides. However, this smart South London bar and restaurant, from the boys behind Inigo is less about goosebumps and more about good times.The VenueTaking over where Clapham favourite Oblivion left off, Gigalum comes with an impressive pedigree: a great location, loyal following and canny new management. It has been tidied up a good deal, with a clean, bright interior and a well-demarcated outside terrace, plus the usual comfy sofas, jumbo umbrellas etc.
In terms of music, expect to see some of Inigo’s residents taking things on a more commercial tip: funky house for those who come to be entertained, not educated and expect to be able to hold a conversation too.
The AtmosphereLiving up to its name, Oblivion used to be a rowdy affair, known for banging house and a lairy atmosphere. Gigalum is a more civilised animal altogether, having set its sights firmly on Clapham’s cash-rich, time-rich denizens: there’s breakfast and brunch for the pram pack, and a concise but congenial wine list. Things do pick up at night although it remains to be seen whether Gigalum will give its sister venue a run for its money when it comes to really partying hard.
The FoodGigalum’s food won’t win any prizes for originality (think steak, cheeseburgers, grilled tuna, moules mariniere and so on), but it knows its target market and does what it does well – more than can be said for many a bar serving food.
Portions are generous, with simple sides that won’t overstretch the kitchen on a busy summer afternoon. The absence of a brown option when it comes to dessert (come on, you can’t deny people chocolate) is a minor oversight on what is otherwise a simple but reliable menu.
The Last WordA location like this is a bit of a licence to print money, and Gigalum would have to try pretty hard not to do well. Presuming they cover the basics – opening the doors, having alcohol available etc – the Inigo crew have made a canny addition to what we can only hope is a growing empire. And if you don't agree you can always pack your kilt and night vision scope and head off to Argyll and Bute...