An exotic fusion of cultures amid the bustle of Camden, a visit to Gilgamesh is a lavish experience you certainly won’t forget in a while.

The Venue
Understated was clearly not a word in the design brief for Gilgamesh, because if it was, well the £12m project failed quite miserably. If however, stunning, extravagant and downright decadent were called for, Gilgamesh comes up trumps.

In the hectic heart of Camden’s Stables Market, not where you’d expect to find such a vast and epic venue, a grand escalator transports you to an opulent far away world for a few hours – albeit with a loud freight train shooting past the window. The design is very much a blend of cultures and is based on the story of the old Babylonian king Gilgamesh who was known for his extravagance, and no expense has been spared in recreating a venue where he’d feel right at home.

It’s a huge restaurant-bar-lounge hybrid with separate areas, some of which are available to hire, and seating for 800. In the bar a spectacular carved wooden ceiling and frieze depict Mesopotamian life, while changing coloured lighting, a long glittering bar and plush seating scattered with satin cushions create a relaxing space to sip exotic cocktails before or after dinner. The vast restaurant is dark and atmospheric, with a mix of beautiful half-moon seating and grand carved tables with throne-like chairs. In summer the ceiling dramatically peels back to reveal the night sky and a long narrow window to the kitchen shows the chefs hard at work.

The Atmosphere
Despite its size, the rich colours, comfortable seating and candles on tables, help to achieve an intimate atmosphere. The fusion theme continues with the music, which on a Tuesday evening was a DJ mixing mellow Asian tunes in between two outstanding performances of spine-tingling opera. It is busy mid-week and becomes even more so at the weekends, yet the knowledgable staff remain friendly and attentive. The clientele is completely mixed, with groups of friends, couples and business parties, all there to spend the entire evening basking in the weird and wonderful setting.

The Food
With such high expectations from the magnificent surroundings, the pan-Asian menu created by head chef Ian Pengelley has a lot to live up to. He manages to deliver, although at pretty high prices. Moreish edamame with rock salt are suggested to nibble on whilst mulling over the fare, which is 80 percent Japanese, 10 percent Chinese and 10 percent Thai - a blend that works exceptionally well.

There’s a wide selection of well-prepared sushi, which makes a dramatic appearance on the table amid theatrical dry ice. It tastes as good as it looks, and the Gilgamesh House Roll is worth a try, rolled in a crispy coating and smeared with delicious creamy dressing. There are also soups, salads and dim sum to choose from and it’s a good idea to go with the Asian way of eating and order lots of different dishes to share.

There are several interesting main dishes, including a traditional and very authentic Thai green chicken curry, with big pieces of tender meat and a sharp kick of lemongrass and galangal, along with the highly recommended sea bass marinated in miso with a side serving of stir-fired Asian greens. The sea bass is pricey at a bit over £25.00, but the huge chunk of white fish (plenty for two to share) is mouth-wateringly soft with a delicate sweetness. Other options include an aubergine, sweet potato and tofu curry, and whole snapper in hot and sour broth.

If you’ve more room after all that, there’s a varied menu of creamy dessert cocktails and desserts including a rich and indulgent chocolate fondant and a selection of sharp, yet creamy sorbets served in tiny square pots with miniature spoons.

The Drink
The wonderfully unusual cocktail menu offers non-alcoholic and alcoholic treats such as a Kutu (chilli, mint and pink grapefruit shaken with a shot of Tanqueray gin), which is incredibly sharp and fragrant, and Berry Bubble, a smoothie-like champagne cocktail served with fresh raspberries and blackberries. Quite steep at around £10.00, but nice for a special occasion.

The wine list is surprisingly extensive, with a wide range of vintages and interesting entries from Italy, Chile, South Africa, Spain, France, Australia and America. Prices vary from around £20.00-£100.00 a bottle, with a limited selection available by the glass, and there’s the 1961 French Chateau Latour at a staggering £6,000 for anyone with huge amounts of cash to splash.

The Last Word
Gilgamesh is an extravagant dining experience and the ultimate place to bring anyone you want to impress or celebrate a special occasion. It’s completely OTT, and you’ll either love it or hate it, but it’s undeniably impressive and well worth a visit.

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