There’s no shortage of stylish restaurants in Chelsea so there’s an onus on the semi-chic establishments to up their game and pull out all the stops. Gilmours doesn’t quite have the wow factor but it does offer polished British cuisine and one or two peculiar flavour combinations without being overly prim and proper.

The Venue
Situated somewhere between Stamford Bridge and the Fulham Road, Park Walk is rather inconspicuous in comparison though no less prosperous and Gilmours is still clearly aimed at the wealthier half of London. Gilmours is a pristine, indistinctive looking venue aside from its decidedly garish colour scheme which lends it old fashioned charm if nothing else. Banquettes, chairs and upholstery alike are all adorned in stripy teal and brown colours with pastille style paintings for decoration. The copper furnished bar with adjacent plasma screen coupled with the open plan kitchen ensure the restaurant retains a modish edge.

The Atmosphere
An air of serenity pervades in this intimate venue but don’t mistake civility and contentment for an atmosphere that may seem prosaic and placid at first. Gilmours has clearly built up an ardent local following of the well suited variety and though it doesn’t start to get busy until after 8PM, staff display a confidence and composure that is mirrored by the assured, relative tranquility in the kitchen. Nothing is rushed, food arrives at pleasing intervals and the waiting staff are attentive and observant without ever being finicky and overbearing.

The Food
A functional, familiar menu is peppered with a handful of unusual combinations. Devon crab cakes with red pepper mayo and tomato and basil sorbet (£9) is one such example. The crab cakes are a little overpriced though extremely tasty, crispy and golden and dressed in a wonderfully light, sweet red pepper mayo sauce. The tomato and basil sorbet is an interesting addition – a lime green scoop of savoury ice cream that makes for a pleasingly cold counterbalance to the warm fish cakes. Foie gras (£9) is an altogether more common dish served with smoked duck, pear and walnut salad and dressed in star anise. It’s a beautifully presented plate of food – with the salad in particular lending it autumnal undertones. The prominent, lingering flavour is the foie gras itself – typically pungent and aided by delicate, salty slathers of duck that when working in tandem equate to a pungent, piercing dish that’s never less than appetising.

Slow roast belly of Blythburgh, Suffolk pork with apple sauce and mash (£14.50) is one of the restaurant’s more popular mains and it doesn’t disappoint. There’s nothing frivolous about this dish, just good traditional ingredients cooked properly. The mash is thin, buttery, creamy and the meat is a moist, succulent hunk served beneath rich, salty crackling and opposite a gloopy, gluttonous apple sauce. It’s a stomach-swelling experience and completely irresistible. Char grilled 12-ounce cote de boeuf at £21 is probably as much as you’d like to pay for a steak even if it has been aged for 28 days and cooked to a perfect medium rare. Served with the proverbial bearnaise or peppercorn sauce, it’s melt in your mouth stuff and full of flavour – smoky, woody, and earthy in its essence.

Half a dozen or so desserts are on offer but it’s the warm treacle tart with goat’s cheese ice cream (£6) that stands out. It’s a curious concoction and one that’s probably worth a punt once to see what all the fuss is about. In this instance, the cheese is surprisingly mellow and subdued and it’s the excessively treacly tart – sweet and gooey to the extreme – that batters the minimal pastry into submission. Once the height of exoticism and style, the knickerbocker glory (£6) is now something of a retro throwback to the desserts of yesteryear. Served with caramelised banana, sensual fudge sauce, hazelnuts and a dollop of nostalgia, it’s pleasurable if a little pedestrian.

For those in search of a bargain, it must be mentioned that you can purchase a glass of red or white wine served with either beer battered haddock or Scottish rump steak (both served with chips) all day before 7.30PM and after 10PM for £12.50. A two course set lunch, served Monday to Friday, costs £12.50 and their Sunday roast is priced at £20 including dessert.

The Drink
An extensive, regularly changing wine list from self professed connoisseur and restaurant owner Christopher Gilmour is clearly aimed at the well-travelled with discerning palates. Spanish, French, Australian and American wines range from £14 to £27 a bottle and £3.75 to £6.75 by the glass. The New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (£25) is a good bet, smooth and willowy and excellent with fish. Champagnes and sparkling wines are priced £30 to £196 whilst there are two separate Italian and Spanish lists, reds ranging from £15 to £350 and whites at £15 to £110.

The Last Word
With stately poise, controlled service and precision cooking, Gilmours possesses all the qualities you’d expect from a restaurant on this side of the water. Notwithstanding the glaring colour scheme and occasionally stolid ambience, it’s well worth a visit if only to sample a scoop of basil sorbet.

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