From the outside, one would be forgiven for thinking that the Royal Exchange is another of London’s historical attractions. In fact, it is home to a number of designer shops and restaurants, in the middle of which is the Conran-led Grand Cafe, providing all-day food, drinks and afternoon tea to workers in the Square Mile.

The Venue
The magnificent Grade I listed building that houses the Grand Cafe dates back to the 16th century, when it was first erected to house London’s stock exchange. The building has been rebuilt twice, after being completely destroyed in the Great Fire of London and again after a blaze in 1838, however it has retained original features such as the Corinthian columns on its facade and the central courtyard. Luckily the building survived the World War II bombings, and in 2001 it was renovated to make space for luxury stores like Tiffany, Cartier and Hermes.

The Atmosphere
The Grand Cafe itself is located in the bright and airy courtyard in the centre of the complex, where tradesmen used to meet for business many years previously. Due to its location in the financial district it’s no wonder the Grand Cafe attracts smartly dressed city workers at lunchtimes, as well as affluent shoppers in need of refreshment, enticed by the surrounding shops. Waiting staff dressed in smart waistcoats march to and fro between the tables and a large kitchen station, whilst the tiled flooring and dark brown tables and chairs lend the cafe a quaint appearance.

The Food
The menu features a selection of light bites, starting from £9.50 for a salad or baguette, as well as more substantial dishes starting from £12.85 for the steak and Guinness pie with mash. Sirloin steak, fish and chips, oysters and seafood platters can also be ordered, and the cafe is open for breakfast from 8am.

The breast of guinea fowl is garnished with grapes and sits on a pool of slightly sweet Madeira sauce. The meat is tender to the bite and covered with crispy brown skin. It’s accompanied by a ‘choux farcie’, in other words, a cabbage leaf stuffed with chopped carrots, cabbage and ham. A potato fondant that is crunchy on the outside but soft on the inside completes the dish.

The chicken Caesar salad arrives in a huge bowl; it’s a large serving of leaves and grilled pieces of chicken, covered in Parmesan shavings and drizzled in Caesar dressing. Its generous size makes it a particularly filling salad.

The Drink
The drinks menu includes an array of classic cocktails, wines, beers and pricey champagnes. The Pinot Grigio, Terra Alpina 2008 is modestly priced by the glass (£6.90) and is full-bodied and refreshing, while the more expensive Sancerre, Henri Bourgeois 2008 (£9.50) is light with hints of citrus.

The Last Word
Food is of a high standard, as can be expected from any Terence Conran restaurant, while the prices are mid-range. Grand Cafe is a safe option for business lunches or for visitors to the area wanting modern British cuisine.

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