The Grand Union

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 10 reviews

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123 Acre Lane,
Brixton,
London,
SW2 5UA

(020) 7274 8794

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byRoxanne Ridge17/03/2009
With breathtaking burgers and cool cocktails, Grand Union Brixton puts a twist on your usual London chain.

The Venue
Sat between Brixton and Clapham North tube stations, Grand Union Brixton is easy to find. Those familiar with the area will know the bar was the Hope and Anchor prior to November 2008. You can't help but notice the rather run down shops and takeout venues opposite, but then this makes the clean frontage stand out even more.

This is a huge pub, set over two floors, and can accommodate 600 people. When you first step inside, you might think it a little dark but you'll be instantly taken aback by the decor. Vintage flock wallpaper with ornaments and lighting from the Sixties sit alongside a decent number of tables and booths. Move through the bar area and you'll see a light-up sign saying 'dancing'. This leads to a well-sized upstairs dance floor.

What really makes this venue, however, are the outside areas. There's a good-sized smoking area with tables at the front, and to the back there's one of the largest beer gardens in London. Features include a funky water fountain, row upon row of benches, heated seating areas and four unique tree houses, each large enough to seat a group of people on the low-level seating. They're perfect if you want an alternative drinking experience. This place is open really late, so it's a great venue if you want to grab a bite to eat and then dance into the wee hours.

The Atmosphere
Grand Union Brixton has a really chilled-out atmosphere and attracts a range of locals – everyone from young professionals stopping by for a drink or bite to eat on their way home, to groups of people in their twenties and thirties on a night out. There are also a few couples dotted around who just want to enjoy meal in a cool place. This is by no means a pretentious bar and pretty much anyone will feel relaxed here. This is reinforced by the friendly, laid-back staff; while, at times, the service is a little slow, they're always chatty and smiley.

The music played in the background is designed to please everyone. You've got 1990s hits played alongside the latest indie tracks and dance and electro tunes. You could argue the music is a little loud whilst you're eating, but it's perfect for getting up and dancing to when you're having an after dinner cocktail.

The Food
The menu at Grand Union Brixton, while simple, really works. It consists of a long and varied list of burgers and includes everything from mozzarella and pesto, avacado and bacon, smoked chilli and an Oriental style burger and bun, among others. There are also veggie options and bread-free burgers. Priced from £4-£8, it’s excellent value for money.

A great burger for meat lovers is the blue cheeseburger (£6.95). The ingredients may seem basic, but it tastes delicious. As with all dishes that include blue cheese, it runs the risk of being too salty, but the balance in this burger is particularly well done. The 7oz beef patty is juicy and a substantial portion to fill you up (if you want side dishes, you have to order them separately) and the crisp lettuce and beef tomato perfectly complement this and mould the ingredients together for a sharp yet vibrant taste.

If you're feeling a bit alternative, the bread-free veggie stack (£6.95) is a good option. This, as with all the dishes at the Grand Union Brixton, arrives at the table looking too good to eat, with an obvious attention paid to the presentation. The dish consists of a stack of chargrilled vegetables, including perfectly cooked aubergene and roasted peppers, a generous portion of feta cheese cubes and dollops of pesto to add a slight zest to the dish. This is topped off with rocket, which not only adds to the appearance of the dish but also gives a satisfying peppery taste. If you're hungry, even the bread-free burgers are surprisingly filling.

There is also a good selection of sides on offer. They're priced from £1.65-£3.75, and the coleslaw is a great option. The portion is generous and is delivered to the table in an interesting cone shape. It's not too rich, yet satisfyingly creamy and is made of the traditional shredded cabbage and crunchy carrot. The cheesy chips are also tasty – they're French fries and aren't dripping with grease or overly salty. Light and fluffy, the cheese is evenly distributed throughout the portion, so you're not disappointed when you finish the top layer of the bowl. It comes with ketchup and mayonnaise, so condiment lovers won't be disappointed. In addition to the burgers and fries, there's also a selection of salads and platters you can pre-order for four to six people, costing £25.

The Drink
The Grand Union Brixton has a well-stocked bar and whether you like beer (all the favourites, including Guinness and Fosters are available), wine or spirits, you won't be disappointed. Part of the reason why there are so many spirits on offer is because Grand Union Brixton specialises in cocktails. There's a huge list, including shaken shots and non-alcoholic varieties and something for even the most extravagant drinker. Classic cocktails start at £7-£8 and the luxury cocktails are priced up to £12.50 for the Fresh Prince. Consisting of hibiscus soaked in juices and Grey Goose vodka topped with Moet NV, this really is a treat. It's unlikely you'd sip on something like this all night, but it's great to have the option for a special occasion. The sweet mix of the hibiscus is nicely offset by the sparkle of the Champagne.

In terms of wine, there's a reasonably sized list. Prices start at £12.50 and go up to £19.50. The Chardonnay (£12.50) is a great choice – a crisp, neutral taste complements most dishes and is really good value for money.

The Last Word
Whether you're drinking, dancing or dining at the Grand Union Brixton, you definitely won't be disappointed. A great addition to Brixton – make sure you check out those tree houses come the summer.
The Grand Union has been reviewed by 10 users

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