The Grand Union

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 4 reviews

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243 Goldhawk Road,
Ravenscourt Park,
London,
W12 8EU

(020) 8741 2312

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byLisa Ellwood09/06/2009
With its unique mix of posh totty, TV presenters and pitbull owners, the West London enclave of Ravenscourt Park has for a long time been a great place to live with plenty of locals to pop into for a pint or even to guzzle gastro grub. However, the late night bar scene was always missing one important element – decent DJs. Until now. The recent addition of the Grand Union and its discerning taste in vinyl spinners has quickly propelled the area onto every self respecting scenester’s map and it’s not before time.

The Venue
On busy, balmy nights, the decked area at the front of Grand Union is heaving but it’s when you step through the etched glass doors and past the welcome of the doormen that the reason for the appeal of the pub really becomes evident. Quirky touches have been combined with sympathetic styling to really make the most of the superb building which used to be a piano bar in its previous guise. The space is divided into two with a large bar and plenty of seating in both – the main point of difference being that the area at the front houses the DJ in a corner on the far side whilst the back bar area boasts an open kitchen from which the food flows steadily all day and night.

The high drama of the styling is so eclectic that it succeeds in creating cosy, sociable spaces despite the vastness of the venue. Lighting is key. Fairy lights twinkle beneath the bar and around the huge sash windows that are etched with the Grand Union logo, freestanding fringe shaded lamps cast pools of amber light over tables to accompany pillar candles that are lit as afternoon slides into night, mismatched lampshades (their cables concealed with feather boas twisted around them) hang low over the bar and chandeliers with small lampshades swing gently from the dark painted ceiling high overhead.

Columns glisten in silver at the front of Grand Union and the shade is echoed in the aluminium, industrial-styled open kitchen at the back. Walls are alternately papered with the blowsy cabbage rose design that features in all of the Grand Union bars whilst for other walls the brick has been left bare and slathered with a thick layer of olive green paint before being covered from floor to ceiling in pictures and large gilt, curlicued mirrors etched with the Grand Union logo. Not only do the mirrors close to the large tables and eclectic chairs (from scuffed Chesterfields to reclaimed armchairs) serve their intended purpose of bouncing light around back into the room, they also handily provide the opportunity for the vain or on the pull to check out their appearance or the rest of the room without attracting unwanted attention. A hotchpotch of rugs, fans splayed onto the walls and deep red velvet curtains draping theatrically around the bar are the final flourishes to the luxe, rambling country house styling.

The Atmosphere
Whether you’re a regular or dropping by for the first time, staff are always ready with a smile and are quick to serve you even when both bars are at their busiest which is admirable given that there’s no table service so food orders are also taken over the bar. Early evening drinks and large platters of food shared between friends over chilled conversations are exchanged for more upbeat socialising as the DJ cranks up the volume and locals act on the pink neon sign urging that you shrug off the stresses of the day and ‘dance’.

The Food
In the back bar, the food is a focal point. The slick, industrial styled open kitchen lends a cosiness to the space but it’s also a very necessary addition as the Grand Union prides itself on offering simple, hearty, high quality food at reasonable prices. No fuss platters feed hungry groups for just a few quid each. For £25 you can dig into a bowl of crisp, golden, chips that reveal light, fluffy potato when you bite into them, miniature burgers in buns (both lamb and beef), cooked so well that even scaled down they remain succulent whilst the flavour of the meat is enhanced with fresh, shredded herbs, spicy falafel and creamy houmous, pepper and goat’s cheese crostini and chicken breast on skewers, all accompanied by dips and large enough to feed four to six people.

If you don’t believe in sharing your food, try one of the bunless burgers. The Grand Union Breadless Burgers are testament to the fact that the burgers are well made enough to hold their own without any of the frills. Keep it simple with the GU Breadless Beef (£5.25). A mound of salad is served alongside the beautifully cooked burger (crisp on the outside and just bloody enough inside) that’s not only a generous sized patty but also so juicy and full of flavour that there’s no need to cover it in the condiments that are offered. If you’d rather a more unusual option, the Veggie Stack at £6.95 (chargrilled vegetables, pesto, feta, sun-dried tomatoes and rocket) and the Chicken and Goat’s Cheese Stack (£7.95), a freshly seasoned chicken breast layered with goat’s cheese, pesto, rocket, sun-dried tomatoes and chargrilled vegetables are both superb alternatives.

The Drink
The Grand Union in Ravenscourt Park is certainly not a destination for the indecisive. When you’ve decided whether to sit inside or out, in the front or back bar, to opt for food or dancing, the final decision is what to drink. And here you’ll have to go with your whim as the high standards that the owners have applied to the rest of the bar are just as in evidence behind it. The wide selection of wine is reasonably priced and good quality (starting from £3.80 for a glass of Le Reve), the premium beers on draught are well pulled and include Becks, Stella and Guinness at £3.50 and Staropramen at £3.70 a pint), there are plenty of other bottles to choose from (on sunny days they do a roaring trade in Kopparberg pear cider at £4 for a large bottle) and the cocktails are inventive and good quality.

Whilst the cocktails aren’t that cheap, they are large, well made and pretty much twice the size of other offerings that you’ll find in the area. The classic cocktails set the standard. A mojito is always a good benchmark of a barman’s cocktail making abilities and the Grand Union’s mojito (£7.50) uses plenty of Cuban rum, just enough sugar to take the slight bitterness off the mint and a squeeze of lime juice to cut through the drink and keep it refreshing. The attention to detail isn’t lost on the more unusual concoctions either and the Shaken Shots are particularly popular with groups of friends. The small, shaken cocktails are served into four shot glasses and cost £12 for the Purple Hooter (vodka, lime and Chambord) and Dusk Till Dawn (tequila, triple sec, lime and orange) and £14 for the Shaking Orgasm (Amaretto, Baileys and Kahlua) and Baby Berry Daiquiri (rum, raspberries, strawberries and framboise).

The Last Word
Whether you’re after DJs and dancing, cocktails and quality conversation or blinding burgers and beer, the Grand Union in Ravenscourt Park serves up every element in its own inimitable style - seamlessly.
The Grand Union has been reviewed by 4 users
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