The Grove combines youthful exuberance and a residential location, making it great for any occasion.

The Venue
The Grove is a place that you need to know about since Oldridge Road is a residential road to nowhere, midway between Balham station and Clapham South underground. Its patch off the beaten track is sizeable, although it doesn’t have the luxury of much outdoor space in an area predominantly surrounded by housing. Nevertheless, the patio tables along two sides of the pub maximise the space, and these areas are kept neat, tidy and are sectioned off from the street by climbing plants and shrubs.

The indoor space spreads out generously, with a large bar stoutly parked in the middle. Some of the furniture is a lot like a living room: big, battered brown sofas are mixed with stocky fabric footstools. The middle section smartens up – it’s more kitchen diner with high stools, tables for two and sheltered areas for an intimate drink. The grand dining room is more elegant again, decorated in deep reds, evergreen, dark woods and chocolate browns. Wine bottles and candles complete the accomplished feel.

The Atmosphere
This Young’s venue is pretty typical of the brewer at its best. It’s a good, smartish meeting point for young families or a laid back local for young professionals. Aimed at the starter home generation, it is child-friendly and affordable, but also has grown up quality. Apart from the quite obvious fact that there are kids everywhere, another hint that they’re invited is the inclusion on the menu of a children’s Sunday lunch portion. This along with loud music makes the place pretty noisy if you’re after a civilised setting for lunch.

In the week and on weekday evenings, it’s a safe bet for a gossip over a glass of wine, which can often turn into a couple of bottles; equally, a couple of pints can lead to a session. Live sports are also very popular here.

The Food
Hit or miss sums up the standard of food at The Grove, something that can create food envy among diners. Imagine the disappointment of a sloppy smoked mackerel, potato and egg fish cake (£5.50), when someone in your party wisely chooses the warming butternut squash soup (£3.95), not only homemade but surprisingly flavourful.

While Sunday roasts (£12.50) are a big hit and contain layers of meat, giant Yorkshire puds and well cooked veg, they're far from perfect: mashed sweet potato is misplaced, and the uncrackled pork belly leaves it blobby, white and fatty. Elsewhere, a dry beetroot and shallot tart (£9.65) tastes sweet and lovely, but requires more of the accompanying grape chutney, and the burgers (£10.20) are good and herbaceous, but also a bit dry.

Dessert-wise, the treacle tart (£5.20) is chewy and the hint of whisky is too subtle to detect. To sweeten the experience, try the beautiful Buckinghamshire sourced Beechdean ice cream (£4.65).

The Drink
Young’s are big on its beer, so on offer there’s the always fruity Young’s Special (£3.16 a pint), and the lighter, drier Young’s Bitter (£2.94), as well as guest tipples. The wines are also given great attention, and there is an abundance of after dinner sweet and fortified wines to accompany the 14 whites and 13 reds. Recommended is the full-bodied, spicy, Bodegas El Coto Rioja (£4.95 or £18.25 a bottle). If you’re sipping a digestif, there’s a tawny port, Warre Otima, £5.25, which is perfect after a heavy and wholesome meal.

The Last Word
Away from the busyness of Balham, The Grove is a good hideaway that welcomes families, sports fans, and parties alike, but still manages to afford smaller groups some privacy.

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