A lively brasserie with a vibrant atmosphere, Harrisons offers comforting British food to Balham locals.

The Venue
Harrisons is restaurateur Sam Harrison’s second venue in the capital, the first being Sams Brasserie and Bar in Chiswick. Both venues are also co-owned by Rick Stein, with whom Harrison worked at the celebrity chef’s Seafood Restaurant in Cornwall. But whereas the Cornwall restaurant has an airy, beachy feel, Harrisons is all about local London, with a no-nonsense frontage emblazoned by a large H. Once inside, the modern brasserie theme continues with contemporary seating and a mix of leather, metal and wood. Based around a central bar and open kitchen, the venue splits into several seating areas which, although it doesn’t offer the best continuity, means that there’s a slightly different atmosphere depending on where you sit.

The Atmosphere
The tables next to the large floor to ceiling windows are an ideal spot for the more glamorous locals of Balham to see and be seen, whilst seating next to the open kitchen is good for those who like to see the chefs in action. Harrisons is also family friendly, with a two course kids’ menu for £6, and it’s not unusual to see parents and kids dining table-to-table with young couples on dates. Their commitment to the local community includes plenty of events, everything from bridge nights to charity dinners, plus weekend breakfasts and brunches. When full, the atmosphere is buzzing and combined with the smooth service it’s easy to get so involved with your meal that the hours fly by.

The Food
Harrisons has a variety of menus, including the aforementioned breakfast and brunch plus weekday lunch, dinner and Sunday set menus. The a la carte brasserie menu offers good value for the area with most mains between £10 and £15 barring the two steak options. Most dishes cater to the meat-eating crowd but there are also several fish and vegetarian options, such as the goat’s cheese salad (£7.50), a large sized starter that raises the game a bit from other goat’s cheese salads by using large chunks of both red and golden beetroot. A scattering of candied walnuts adds crunch and sweetness to balance the sharp, soft goat’s cheese. A half pint of prawns (£7.50) is exactly that, whole prawns stuffed into a half pint glass with a side of zesty lemon mayonnaise. The fresh taste of the prawns is a just reward for the beheading and shelling necessary in order to eat them.

Mains include a rib-eye steak (£17.50) with Bearnaise sauce, cooked to order and served on a wooden board with a pot of chips. The steak is good quality, with a nice flavour, and the chips are thin, crisp and not too salty. The seared salmon burger (£10.50) features a large, thick patty on a sesame-seeded bun, topped with onions and a subtle wasabi mayo. It’s as good as you’d hope but the caper, parsley and red onion salad on the side is surprising as it seems much too large, more suited for a garnish than an accompaniment.

Classic comfort food favourites lead the way on the dessert menu, with a hot chocolate fondant (£6) cooked perfectly, with a bittersweet chocolate interior encased in a rich chocolate cake. The steamed treacle pudding (£5.50) is indulgent, the light sponge made sugary sweet by the hot, syrupy treacle.

The Drink
An international wine list offers a good range of affordable prices, from £14 to £58.50, plus dessert wines, port, Champagnes and sparkling wines. About fifteen wines are available by both the glass and carafe, which is a nice touch. A La Chamiza Polo Amature Malbec from Argentina (£5/£14/£20.50) has a ripe, fresh taste whilst Rick Stein’s Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc from Hunter Valley (£5.75/£16.50/£24.50), which Stein had created for his Cornwall restaurants as well as Harrisons and Sams, is refreshing and crisp.

The bar has a variety of cocktails available, priced at around £7 to £8 each. Harrison’s Red Mist (£7.50) mixes Jack Daniel’s, Creme de Fraise and Chambord with strawberries, raspberries and grapefruit for a strong concoction with a warm, intense flavour. Other choices include the Red Grape and Melon Crush (rum, red grapes, melon and Midori), After 8 (Baileys, Creme de Menthe and milk) plus classics like martinis and mojitos.

The Last Word
The buzzing crowd of Balham locals speaks volumes. In area that’s home to plenty of specialty food shops, delis and independent restaurants, Harrisons has built up a solid reputation, and for good reason.

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