With a gothic black frontage and an equally forbidding colour scheme inside, where its walls are lined with spooky hunting trophies, the Hat and Tun clearly revels in its heritage as an ancient London pub. But there’s nothing outdated about the hearty fayre on the pub lunch menu, even if it does play on its heritage and tradition.

The Venue
Although old, its dark wooden floorboards and wood-panelled walls have been kept in top condition, much in keeping with its smart, professional clientele. At the front of the pub there are tables for diners; at the back a comfy looking snug area with an open fire. The staff are obviously used to handling the sudden lunchtime influx and seem to zip about the place with ease, delivering a large number of covers quickly and with a minimum of fuss while attending quickly to diners’ needs.

The Atmosphere
The peak time crowd – food is only served from midday-3pm each weekday - is clearly dominated by professionals from nearby offices and, although there are work groups of mixed ages, it’s probably fair to say that the average drinker here is somewhere in the 40-60 range. It’s certainly not rowdy, but nor is it too quiet and well behaved for comfort and it‘s not until they exodus for the afternoon shift that the laid back music playing on the pub’s stereo - unexpectedly skanking reggae on a recent visit - can be heard above the sound of jovial office banter.

The Food
The menu is a clever mixture of dishes, some of which befit its traditional status and others which have moved with the times a little more. Its array of pub grub pies and mash is clearly something it’s proud of, and takes centre stage on the menu. Rightly so, as it turns out, as a veggie-friendly broccoli, stilton and mushroom pie (£7.75), proves exceptionally tasty and the deliciously creamy mash that comes with it a suitably naughty accompaniment. Equally enjoyable is the fish pie, which is generously topped with mash and served with a tempting cluster of mushy peas (£8.25). Other trademark mains include meat pies - steak and ale, steak and kidney and chicken and tarragon (all £8.25 or £10.25 with a pint of beer), pork sausages and mash (£8.25), salmon fishcakes with spinach salad (£8.50) and hot salt beef sandwiches (£8.50), although these are offered from Wednesdays to Fridays only.

Vegetarians are not going to be interested in the majority of the menu, but macaroni cheese (£7.75), goat’s cheese salad (£6.50) and a few other options ensure they needn’t go hungry. There’s also a limited selection of starters and puddings including the soup of the day (£5.25), such as the tangy tomato served with crusty bread, and a tender smoked salmon (£7.50). For afters you can enjoy an almond tart with a smidgeon of vanilla ice cream (£6.75), and a decadently gooey warm chocolate brownie with chocolate sauce and ice cream (£5).

The Drink
The wine list is considerable, spanning six champagnes plus another two rose champagnes, two rose wines, and a choice of nearly twenty white and red wines. The prices reflect an upmarket range, from £16-£50. With French Chard/Viognier/Sauvignon proving the cheapest option at £16, and for red drinkers Merlot/Syrah/Grenache at the same price. A bottle of house Merlot is rich, woody, and more than enough to accompany three courses. Those opting for sparkling wine/champagne can pay £22.50 for Prosecco, £42 for Joseph Perrier Brut Cuvee Royale or £62 for the Bollinger, with a few in between, and there’s also a fair selection of beers including plenty of real ales and guest beers behind the bar.

The Last Word
It’s competitive if not cheaply priced, and the portions are reasonable without being over-generous, but where The Hat and Tun excels is in the quality of its ingredients, making its offerings much tastier and exceptional than the average pub food offering. That, the wine list and friendly but hands-off service are the real reasons to visit.

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