The ViewLondon Review
Previously a popular local called Deux Beers, The Hat and Tun is part of an ever-expanding pub empire that includes such well-known venues as The Botanist, the Empress of India, The Gun and Prince Arthur. This particular pub is in keeping with the group with an emphasis on good service and strong decor. If you’re looking for a warming after-work or lunchtime spot for a drink, however, it’s well worth a look.The VenueThe Hat and Tun is handily located a 10 minute walk from Farringdon tube in the midst of media and creative advertising offices, making it a convenient stop off for a bite to eat at lunch or a pint after a hard day’s work. The exterior is welcoming – traditional but not intimidating for those not au fait with old man pubs. This errs towards the styling of such venues as The Gun and Prince Arthur; charming with a stylish twist.
Push your way past one of two heavy wooden doorways and you’ll be met with a warm pub that's instantly likeable. Although quite diminutive in stature, the Hat and Tun makes excellent use of its restricted space with large wall-length mirrors spanning two walls, instantly creating the illusion of a much larger area. Surprisingly comfortable seating in the form of wooden tables and chairs for groups of four and couples line the outer edge, and by one of the doorways is a small ledge with a couple of high stools for when the dining tables are all occupied. Alternatively, you’re welcome to sit up at the bar, which is refreshing in London, where the clamour for drinks often makes this impossible. Towards the back of the pub is an additional space that’s cleverly opened up with another cosy little area with a large table for groups to secrete themselves away. Just be sure to be the first through the door to grab the large leather armchair-like porter's chair that overhangs so far it practically encapsulates anyone who sits in it.
The decor itself is traditional, with lots of dark woods and a neutral colour scheme, helped along by such touches as two large stuffed boar heads, two badger heads and a rather angry looking fox (well, who can blame him?) as well as two blanched skulls of some kind of antelope, complete with large horns. It’s certainly no vegetarian’s delight, but it does add a cosy country lodge feel to the pub.
The AtmosphereThe atmosphere at the Hat and Tun is nothing short of relaxed. At lunchtime, casual media workers pop in for a chat over complex looking drawings or chill out with a pint and a pork pie before heading back to the grindstone. You’ll also find groups of young twenty-to-thirtysomethings enjoying a sit down meal. Food is only served until 3pm, so in the evenings the emphasis shifts firmly over to the art of drinking, where this becomes a rather charming local for those looking to indulge in a pint before commuting home.
The staff are particularly worthy of mention, being friendly, smiley and genuine. You won’t be left waiting for long, which is ideal when dining at lunchtime if you only have an hour to cram in a couple of courses. The efficiency of the service doesn’t stop the staff from taking the time to engage in a bit of friendly banter, whether you’re a regular or not, which helps to perpetuate the friendly countryside local atmosphere of the pub.
The FoodThe food at the Hat and Tun is only served between the hours of 12pm and 3pm, and is a traditional British menu with a reasonable price point. There’s also the nice touch of bar snacks for just £1, including gherkins and pickled eggs.
Starters cost between £4 and £7 and includes an eclectic selection of everything from a sausage roll and pork pie with piccalilli to organic smoked salmon with brown bread. The cheese and onion quiche comes as a huge slab that could almost serve as an adequate lunch in itself. Unfortunately, although nicely chilled with a firm but not tough pastry crust, the quiche itself is a little on the stodgy side and could do with some seasoning to bring out the flavours, which are rather bland. However, it’s not unpleasant and will definitely fill a hole. Alternatively, you can try the half pint of prawns with mayonnaise. Appearing simply (welcomingly so) presented in a traditional pub glass, the stunningly pink prawns stare out with dark blank eyes. In shells, you’ll first have to strip them to get in at the plump flesh beneath (luckily you'll receive a finger bowl complete with a slice of lemon). It’s just worth noting that the fishy smell is especially potent, more so than you may expect, and it may be one to avoid if you work in a small office and care about what your colleagues think.
The main courses continue the British theme with such choices as fish pie with mushy peas and a traditional Huntsman’s lunch, alongside lighter doorstep sandwiches (priced at £6-£8). The steak and ale pie with mash and liquor (complete with an optional pint for a couple of pounds extra) is sure to be a popular choice and comes well presented with a towering peak of soft mash, a light liquor swimming in the bottom of the bowl and a golden pie. The pie is delicious, with a large helping of meat inside that’s tender without a hint of gristle. The gravy is rich and warming and the pastry perfectly crisp and not overly heavy, complementing the pie rather than overpowering it. Unfortunately, the mash isn’t creamy enough and is almost reminiscent of school dinner mashed potates. Whilst smooth potato works well in haute cuisine, in this instance a more rough and ready approach would be appreciated, and you almost want to slather it with a large knob of butter and a few pinches of peppar just to add some oomph. Luckily, the liquor soaks into the potato and adds a light flavour similar to a watery gravy. The Ploughman’s lunch (cheddar or Somerset brie, pickled onions, chutney and piccalilli, crusty bread and apple) comes on a wooden board and looks substantial. However, there are a few down points. Although fresh, the apple, rather than being sliced, comes as a half portion meaning you have to cut through it with a knife. It’s a shame, therefore, that they chose a Granny Smith - one of the hardest apples on the market (just watch out for those awkward Pretty Woman dinner moments). The cheese arrives as a generous slab but you can only have cheddar or brie, it would be better if you could have a smaller portion of both to add some variety to the dish. Unfortunately, the bread doesn't appear to be homemade, although it's a large piece of French stick it could do with being warm and it all looks a little plonked together. Certainly not a bad dish by any means, for the £7 price tag you may expect more.
The desserts are definitely the highlight of the menu. Although there’s a small selection of just chocolate tart, apple pie and cheese (with optional glass of port), it’s well made and delicious. For just £5 it’s well worth checking out, even if you are feeling full. The apple pie could be more generously portioned but is pleasantly warm, sweet without being cloying and pastry creates a good balance, all topped off with a generous jug of cream on the side. The chocolate tart is a real star, however, being of the perfect consistency - firm but moist. The chocolate isn’t too overpowering and, although not sweet, is delicately rich. Best of all, it comes with a side of lime cream – it may sound unusual but it works incredibly well. The cream is subtle and slightly sweet, working in perfect tandem with the rich chocolate. Delightful.
The DrinkIf you’re settling in for the evening or looking for an accompaniment with dinner then there’s a decent wine menu with an eclectic selection on offer for more than reasonable prices. The house white is a bottle of Viura Sauvignon Marques del Turia 2006 from Spain for just £14 a bottle (£4.90 for a large glass), and the house red is a Syrah Marques del Turia 2006 also from Spain for £14 a bottle, which is reasonable by any standard. This rises to £32 for a bottle of white Sancerre le Chene Machand Domaine Crochet 2007 from France, and £34 for a bottle of red Mercury Rouge Domaine Croux Jacquelet Faiveley 2003 from France, which still aren’t prohibitively expensive. If you prefer rose then there are three bottles to choose from including a Malbec for just £19. Best of all price-wise is the Champagne choice that includes a bottle of Prosecco for just £20 (£5 a glass), rising to a Bollinger Brut Special Cuvee for £65. In all, a great choice whatever your wine tastes.
If you’re just popping in for a pint, however, you’re also very well catered for with a huge selection of draught options, including Carlsberg, Becks Vier, San Miguel, Lowenbrau, Guinness and Hoegaarden lagers at an average £3.50 a pint, and Fullers London Pride, Adnams Bitter and Adnams Broadside ales. There is also a large choice of bottled beers to finish off the selection, including Cobra, Tiger, Corona, Budvar and Bulmers for £3.30 a bottle.
The Last WordHat and Tun is a decent addition to the ever expanding group of quality pubs, bars and restaurants. Although its food menu may not dazzle, it’s decent enough and reasonably priced for lunchtime. The high points, however, are the drink selection, setting and atmosphere, ideal for a chilled out drink at lunch or after work.
Hat and Tun has been reviewed by 2 users