Feeling hungry? You certainly won’t be after a visit to this steakhouse come cocktail bar.

The Venue
For first-timers, a visit to Hawksmoor is often proceeded by an infuriating, extended safari up and down Commercial Street, sailing repeatedly past the cunningly concealed sign, placed inexplicably at pavement level.

Once inside, however, you are rewarded for your labours by the effortlessly stylish surroundings of an old-fashioned cocktail bar and grill, complete with exposed brickwork and antique punchbowls dating from the 1920s.

The Atmosphere
Contrasting rather amusingly with this graceful decor are the diners, bravely wrestling cuts of meat the size of Belgium, whose efforts create a atmosphere not entirely unlike feeding time at the zoo. This very American arrangement serves Hawksmoor well; it’s laid-back, good fun, and the friendly staff ensure that finger bowls and napkins are always available for sticky paws.

The Food
Simple, unadulterated meat, served in hulking 600g slabs, is supplied by renowned butcher, The Ginger Pig, and hung for a gruelling 28 days before receiving an expert scorching on Hawksmoor’s charcoal grill. The purpose of these mammoth portions is unclear, after all, any human capable of consuming over half a kilo of animal protein ought to be in the circus not in a restaurant.

However, purists will rejoice in the lack of sauces and superfluous flavouring, and those not in the mood for steak can always stuff themselves senseless with grilled shrimps, seabass or the lone vegetarian option.

The Drink
In contrast to the startlingly brief food menu, the Drinks' List, which also includes wines and American beers, reads like an extensive roll-call of classic cocktails from the time of the American Depression.

Beautifully made with homemade fruit syrups, the punches are served in antique bowls with all the accompanying glassware, Mint Juleps stay cool in specially sourced, silver cups and tropical cocktails made popular by Trader Vic’s, come in hand-carved Tiki-style goblets. However, the most memorable snifter on a long list has to be the Tobacco Old Fashioned, which includes a shot of bourbon, heavily infused with tobacco leaves and looks set to allow booze and fags to be enjoyed simultaneously, long after smoking is prohibited in London bars.

The Last Word
Rare treats are in store for cocktail lovers, but dining at Hawksmoor is certainly not for the dainty.

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