12 Sutton Lane North,
Chiswick,
London,
W4 4LD
(020) 8742 7185
The ViewLondon Review
This unpretentious Chiswick hideaway has been transformed into a gastro pub extraordinaire with the added bonus of a large suntrap of a beer garden perfect for Sunday lunch.
The Venue
The Hole in The Wall is not easy to find and this is either its saving grace or its downfall depending on your viewpoint. Located on a narrow residential street in the heart of well-to-do Chiswick, the mock Tudor exterior is perhaps misleading because what is inside is decidedly modern. On quiet evenings - and most weekday evenings are quiet - the minimalist decor and stark wooden floor can seem cold and uninviting but on summer weekends when the sun is shining and the large garden is in use, this pub couldn’t be more pleasant.
Despite its close proximity to the busy A4 and both Gunnersbury and Chiswick stations, this is a peaceful part of West London and not somewhere to go if you’re looking for a raucous evening out. There is a den where you can nurse a pint curled up on sofas in front of the large television screen, a designated area for adults only and a third room with larger tables catering for groups. The garden has room for lots of tables and chairs but often not enough are put out. The management, however, have thoughtfully provided blankets for sitting outside in chillier weather.
The Atmosphere
Locals love the Hole in the Wall and their loyalty to it (despite the patchy service) is testament to the consistently excellent food. The venue is ideal for children in warmer weather and so on weekends it is often difficult to find a table. In the evenings, you will find a scattering of well spoken thirtysomethings - successful types who know their pubs and have plenty to choose from. If you feel the regulars stop what they’re doing to look at you when you first arrive, don’t be put off, they probably are but they’re generally friendly so it’s nothing to worry about.
The Food
The menu at the Hole in the Wall really is something special, offering all kinds of delicious food. The menu changes regularly, which is a shame if you particularly love something (and you will), but ensures a huge variety of beautifully cooked dishes. For starters the delicately cooked tempura vegetables are delicious with a light, crisp batter and you can indulge in main courses like pasta, pork belly and salmon fishcakes. The children’s menu looks promising but mysteriously the shepherds pie always seems to be unavailable so it’s usually a choice of pasta or fish fingers for little ones.
Staffing can be an issue here because although they’re a nice bunch, they are often rushed off their feet and there is never enough staff to cope with the demand for food. It is not unusual to be told there will be a long wait when ordering and when the chef takes a break, all bets are off until he returns.
The Drink
The Hole in the Wall is a pub where you’ll find all the old favourites on tap – Stella, Fosters, San Miguel, Becks Vier, London Pride, Spitfire and a very good Guinness. Meanwhile, bottled beers – Corona, Peroni and Budweiser – along with their bestselling Sauvignon Blanc reflect the tastes of the female regulars. There is a small wine list of decent reds and whites, all at reasonable prices. This isn’t the sort of place you’d go for a cocktail but if only the staff had the time, they’d probably be more than happy to mix something up.
The Last Word
Once upon a time the Hole really lived up to its name. Now it is more of an Aladdin’s Cave and if the term gastro pub is overused nowadays then the Hole in the Wall is deserving of a new and improved description. Offers top notch food that you’ll want more of, even if you do have to wait a while to get it.
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