In an envious position right on the Thames Path between London and Tower Bridges and part of the spectacular Hays Galleria complex of regenerated docks and warehouses, the Horniman at Hays is now one of the more beer-friendly establishments in the Nicholson’s chain.

The Venue
The stretch of the Thames Path between London Bridge and Tower Bridge, alongside what was once the Port of London’s bustling Upper Pool, is now one of London’s most interesting and liveliest riverside sites, with major attractions like Tower Bridge itself and the London Dungeon, numerous shops and caterers and big workplaces including City Hall and the More London complex. Right in the heart of it is Hays Galleria on the old Hays Wharf, a site that, like so many in Southwark, once housed a brewery. Its greatest significance, however, was achieved in the late 19th century when it was the headquarters of Horniman’s, in its day the largest tea trader in the world. In the 1980s the old dock was filled in and the space given an impressive arched roof, creating a fine new public space surrounded by specialist shops that also provides a useful shortcut to London Bridge station.

The area needed a pub, so the Horniman at Hays was added to the complex in 1997, occupying the lower floor of an adjoining warehouse right on the riverfront and perfectly placed for the passing pedestrian traffic. The long frontage makes the best of the river views, complemented by an outdoor terrace. There’s a step down to the large main drinking area with a correspondingly long bar. This is now a Mitchells and Butlers’ Nicholson’s pub and decorated in their characteristic traditional pub style with some attractive nooks and crannies, and extra space created by an upstairs gallery that includes a corner with full table service for diners.

The Atmosphere
As you’d expect the place is usually busy with a wide mix of people – after work drinkers, tourists, riverside promenaders and local residents. Inevitably it’s a little corporate, without much of a local feel, but it’s a more relaxed and certainly more keenly priced environment to eat and drink than the generally more upmarket options clustering along this stretch of the river. Children are welcome until early evening and there’s a children’s menu.

The Food
Nicholson’s standard pub grub menu is on offer with food of reliable quality that’s efficiently served, at higher prices than some in the chain. A full cooked breakfast is £6.95 with both standard and vegetarian options and main courses might include salmon puff pastry (£11.45), aged rib-eye steak (£15.95), roast Shropshire chicken (£9.95), veggie or meat sausages and mash (£8.45) or roast vegetable tart (£8.95). An early evening fixed priced menu offers two courses for £10.95 or three for £13.95.

The Drink
Within a short walk of here are pubs and bars offering some of the best ranges of beer in the UK, so it’s pleasing that the Horniman at Hays, while it’s never going to be a beer geek magnet, makes an extra effort with its beer range. Up to ten real ales are served to Cask Marque standards, with Nicholson’s regular trio of Fuller’s London Pride, Sharp’s Doom Bar and St Austell Tribute usually supplemented by the excellent Thornbridge Jaipur and interesting choices from Nicholson’s seasonal list – perhaps from Box Steam, Brentwood, Triple fff or Wold Top. Keg Staropramen, bottled Sierra Nevada Pale and Duvel widen the beer choice. Around 24 wines are nearly all available by the glass (from £3.90), and there’s a short cocktail list too.

The Last Word
A pitstop worth remembering on one of London’s loveliest stretches of walkway, and a good option for families and groups, the Horniman at Hays is also worth looking in on if you’re a beer fanboy on your way to the Draft House, the Market Porter or the Rake nearby.

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