HUNter 486 at The Arch London is a tribute to 1950s decadence but the combination of a Champagne bar, Martini lounge and excitingly innovative kitchen make it a dining destination for the new decade.

The Venue
HUNter 486 is the restaurant of the adjoining hotel The Arch London. This newly opened boutique hotel is inspired by London’s fashion and style, and takes its name from its enviable location on Great Cumberland Place overlooking Marble Arch. HUNter 486 refers to telephone dialing codes used throughout London in the 1950s, and specifically the phone exchange of Hunter Street which served the Marylebone area – the jurisdiction into which the hotel would fall. Aiming to be a destination rather than just a restaurant, along with the HUNter 486 dining room there’s a Champagne bar and even a Martini Library in which to relax. As well as drinks and dinner the establishment is open for breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea.

It’s not just HUNter 486’s name which is out of the ‘50s, it’s the hotel’s chosen theme. Stepping through the Georgian facade (it’s listed, so there’s no changing this!) is like being whisked into a world from the movies. Low-hanging lights, polished dark wood, velvet curtains and diamond studded chairs are immediately apparent when entering the restaurant, deploying a feeling of glamour and extravagance as well as a peacefulness of times gone by. A glitzy Champagne bar occupies the back wall of the darkened dining area whilst the rest is subtly segregated with curtains in order to give an intimate feel. Curved leather benches surround many of the round tables echoing retro-style and many complete with their own curtains for complete intimacy.

The Atmosphere
The decadence of the surroundings is matched by the attentiveness of the service but there’s much more banter than in the standard high-end restaurant, with staff eager to discuss the restaurant’s food, wine or philosophy, and very knowledgeable on all – it’s service that’s as polished as the wood but with personality thrown in for good measure.

The Food
It’s hard to know how to categorize the food at HUNter 486. There’s definitely a British focus, but with American-style burgers and more Mediterranean and exotic influences thrown in, it seems that rather than being regional, the emphasis is on what suits the surroundings – and in most cases that’s simple, classic dishes served with a modern twist or two. A selection of breads are the first to come to the table. Light, fluffy and warm from the kitchen’s large on-show pizza oven, these are a treat to behold. A rolled foccacia is smeared with tomato and a chilli paste bringing a touch of heat and a load of roasted pepper flavour and is particularly notable.

More bread is to follow with the starters. A charcuterie platter (£7.50) comes with a rosemary and sea salt focaccia which sits alongside a mini Kilner jar of marinated olives and an impressive portion of meat spanning Serrano ham, bresaola, pastrami and salami – a platter made all the more indulgent for the complete lack of geographical commitment. A terrine of foie gras (£7.50) and guinea fowl is equally pleasing and befitting of the retro-bling surroundings. Served with toasted, homemade brioche and a balsamic-rich pear chutney, both this and the platter are epic starters truly fit for any main.

Mains, however, follow suit. Confit Gloucester Old Spot pork belly (£13.50) comes as a meltingly silky square of meat with a crown of crackling so crisp that safety spectacles should perhaps be worn on breaking. Accompaniments of roasted potatoes, charred leeks, porcini mushrooms and pumpkin puree are fitting additions though a little thin on the ground – but side orders of Madeira braised red cabbage (£3.50) and roasted root vegetables (£3.50) with their rich wintry flavours compensate well. Lemon and thyme grilled poussin (£16.50) is just-cooked and juicy with a crisp coating of skin – made in the pizza oven perhaps? Lamb shank (which arrives with red cabbage) also comes highly recommended as do the actual pizzas made in the wood-fired oven, around £8 and in a variety of classic Italian varieties.

Desserts can be a skimping ground for many venues, but not here. A selection includes sticky toffee pudding and bread and butter pudding (both £7.50), along with British cheeses (£9.50) served with oatcakes and quince jelly. Sticky toffee pudding is gooey and tastes of date rather than sugar so a definite success. This comes with modernist accompaniments of yoghurt emulsion and thyme-infused pineapple which are admittedly gimmicky but tasty all the same. The jug of extra toffee sauce is what seals the deal, though. Ice creams and sorbets (three scoops for £7.50), are not to be written off as a dull choice, though. All homemade, flavours include chilli (cool and hot – a taste sensation), chocolate beer (made with Meantime’s chocolate beer) and coconut and kaffir lime.

The Drink
With a Champagne bar and a Martini library, it’s clear that HUNter 486 takes its drinks seriously. The drink menu comes in a black directory-style binder listing all the London 1950s dialing codes. The house HUNtini (£8) is a Martini with a difference – a drop of sherry to accentuate the sweet aromatics of the gin and vermouth. The Earl Grey MarTeani (£9) is a further twist using their own-made Earl Grey tea infused gin. Other martini-style cocktails on offer include Ghost of a Smile (£8) made with violet liqueur and spiked with citrus and anise flavours, served with a homemade chocolate.

Champagne and wine lists are also expectedly vast, starting from around £25 a bottle but going much higher. Staff are on hand to guide, and will gladly find a match for your meal within your price-point. Digestifs, spirits and even smoothies are available too, so there’s plenty of choice – they’re even happy to mix to order.

The Last Word
HUNter 486 is a stylish step back in time that blends nostalgia with innovation. Both food and drink menus are simple yet cleverly inventive, and the only thing slicker than the surroundings is the service.

venue information venue map view london review user reviews (2) image gallery (9) book a table