4-12 Regent Street,
St James,
London,
SW1Y 4PE
(020) 7484 0500
The ViewLondon Review
Flashy interactive tables and quirky fusion dishes may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but the second branch of Inamo is definitely worth a try.
The Venue
You wouldn’t guess it from the Regent Street exterior, but the restaurant is undeniably atmospheric inside. There’s a forest of bamboo around the bar, and an intricate arrangement of lattice screens slide to-and-fro to create intimate dining areas. Then there are the interactive ‘eTables’ themselves, a slightly fiddly concept designed by owners Danny Potter and Noel Hunwick. You can browse descriptions of the drinks and dishes, select your virtual tablecloth (from glowing lilies to peacocks), indulge in a sneaky game of battleships, or peek at the chefs at work via the aptly named ‘chef cam’.
The Atmosphere
Overall, the restaurant pulls off a smart, elegant vibe – partly thanks to a clever location that straddles the deep pockets of St James as well as the crowds of the West End. As there are plenty of distractions on hand, it’s a good spot for both families and anxious first-daters keen to delay conversation.
The Food
Like the décor, Inamo’s bold and colourful dishes show ingenuity, even if some feel a little formulaic. There’s no getting away from the downside though: the small plates are certainly not starters (you’ll need at least two) and you’ll want one side or more with the larger ones. All in all, you’ll be lucky to spend much under £100 for two.
There are a few flashes of excellence in the inescapably pricey small plates, which arrive splendidly presented. The wafer-thin truffle marbled beef (£8.25) is incredibly powerful at first, before mellowing into a sweet, sesame tang. And although it’s just three small mouthfuls, the seared black bean tuna (£7.50) is also punchy and aromatic. It’s slightly more questionable how the salmon and avocado ceviche (£7.25) is connected to Asia, and it misses the subtle balance achieved in sushi dishes like the soft shell crab maki (£7.45). Of the larger plates, the tamarind duck (£16.25) provides a hearty contrast, sliced simply with a sweet, fruity sauce that’s offset by a few flakes of salt. The black miso cod (£16.95), on the other hand, is very dainty but lacks depth – Nobu this is not.
If you’ve still got cash to burn (you can check on your tab as you go, or remain in blissful ignorance), finish up with the pandan macaroon (£6.50), a delicate affair of white chocolate mousse and refreshing lemongrass and coconut sorbet.
The Drink
A huge range of drinks are on offer to accompany the varied menu, including a high-end wine list starting at £17 a bottle, a wide choice of sake and plenty of soft options, from pomegranate juice to flowering tea. Alternatively, there’s a selection of fruity cocktails (£7–£11), which take a while to arrive, but work well with the mix of flavours in the food – a range that many a wine would struggle to balance. The slightly sickeningly named ‘passionate’ passion fruit martini is rich and sweet while the eden gimlet offers a more fragrant jumble of gin, elderflower, strawberry and orange.
The Last Word
In spite of the gimmicks and a few hit-and-miss dishes, Inamo is more sophisticated than you might expect. It might not be somewhere you’ll return to again and again, but it’s a restaurant you’ll remember.
inamo St James has been reviewed by 4 users