Nepalese is not a very popular cuisine in the UK, although it is gaining ground in London. The Kathmandu in Battersea appears to be authentic in its decor and the cuisine it serves. It certainly deserves to be successful because it is quite different to anything else in the area.

The Venue
Battersea is an odd district of London, stretching east from Clapham Junction to Wandsworth Road and north to Battersea Park and containing every conceivable type of restaurant from the very basic take away chippies and pizza parlours to the really haute cuisine places of the Queenstown Road area. The Kathmandu is at the top of Lavender Hill before it hits Queenstown Road. It is situated by a pedestrian crossing so there is no parking directly outside the restaurant, but there are many nearby side roads, so parking should not be a problem. It’s quite a large room seating about fifty covers, although more can be accommodated for parties.

The Atmosphere
The decor is in the favourite Nepalese colours of black and red and obviously a deal of trouble has ensured that the restaurant’s appearance is authentic. Nepalese artefacts adorn the walls, such as mirrors, plaques and pictures, enhancing the room with real character in a traditional but attractive way. Large groups are catered to well. Having opened in August 2007 the restaurant is not yet as busy as it could be, although trade seems to be improving.

The Food
Contrary to popular opinion Nepalese cuisine is nothing like Indian food. Meat and curry are not major ingredients of a diet that in Nepal is based around rice and lentils. Bhu is the traditional plate of mixed dishes normally eaten twice a day in Nepal. It resembles the Indian thali, the tray of several portions of food that forms a complete meal in itself. For £14 a head it includes Jaa, Basmati rice or bread with Ken, yellow or black lentils cooked with herbs, Tarkari, pan-fried seasonal vegetables, Laa ya nya, a choice of chicken, lamb pork or fish, plus Saag, stir-fried spinach, and Achar, sesame pickles of carrot, radish and lemon. It really is a complete meal of smallish portions that add up to a full repast. The pork and lamb are particularly tasty, soft, tender chunks of meat, but these are just a small part of the Bhu, as the main constituents are really the vegetables. It all makes for a very appetizing selection and is probably the best way to try a typical Nepalese meal.

However, that’s not all, because there are starters too. Samay Bajee is an assortment of hors d’oeuvres traditionally served during Nepalese religious ceremonies: Momo are little soft doughy balls of minced pork, rather like ravioli or Chinese dim sum, and very moreish too. Sekuwa is barbecued chicken in delicious bite-size pieces, Aloo kauli is pieces of sauteed potato and cauliflower, and they are all served with sesame pickles. Although the a la carte dishes are not expensive (about £20 – £25 for three courses with accompaniments), the set menus are really good value, from £12 for the menu of the day, with others at £14, £15, £18 and £21, while the Newari Delight is a six-course feast for two people at £65.

To finish there’s Duru Jaa, a deliciously sweet Nepalese rice pudding with coconut and nuts, and Panchamrit, described as an emulsion of five nectars - honey, sugar, butter, milk and curds - another rich concoction that offers a comforting end to the meal.

The Drink
There’s a good wine list with a very good French house wine, a Bordeaux 2005, but you might like to try the Nepalese Ghurka beer, a fine and yeasty lager. Otherwise there is a complete range of the usual beers and spirits. And, instead of coffee, why not try the perfumed Nepalese tea which tastes a little like Indian masala tea. It’s good and strong and really does taste of tea: a very good brew.

The Last Word
The Kathmandu should put Nepalese cuisine on the Battersea map with its attractive ambience and very good and reasonably priced food. All told this is a welcome discovery for an area not overblessed with the best restaurants.

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