After a recent refurbishment, the 140-odd-year-old Kettner’s returns, along with its shabbily chic Champagne bar.

The Venue
Kettner’s first opened in 1867 courtesy of Auguste Kettner, a former chef to Napoleon III. The venue gained somewhat of an infamous reputation thanks to a slew of celebrity clients and a location ideal for intimate post-show wining and dining. A recent refurbishment has seen it turn from a pizza and pasta place to a French brasserie complete with marble tabletops and tarnished candlesticks. Even with its new look, the Champagne bar still holds an old fashioned charm.

Off to the left of the building’s main lobby, the Champagne bar is made up of two rooms, the first of which houses the bar area. The second room is made up entirely of seating, along with a few private areas – pull down the thick velvety curtain for a secluded booth of your own. Mismatched tables and chairs create a haphazard feel, but the decor is boudoir-ish and still romantic.

The Atmosphere
Candle-bedecked tables and Champagne served in low glasses enhance the romantic, subdued atmosphere. Despite its location close to so many theatres, there are definitely no tourists – the clientele are of the sophisticated, established Soho set, meeting up with dates or clients after work. This is not the place for a cheap drink or a quick, casual catch-up, instead it’s more of a place you’d take someone you’re looking to impress. Amongst all the romantic French atmosphere however there are doses of silliness – the menu is interspersed with quotes from various famous personalities about the joys of alcohol. Apparently, economist John Maynard Keynes only regret in life is that he didn’t drink enough Champagne.

The Drink
Champagne, Champagne and more Champagne, but you probably won’t be expecting anything less. Choices are divided into house selections (featuring small growers, iconic selections and sparkling wines from England) and a Champagne tour of quite a few different varieties. Helpfully, each Champagne is introduced with a small paragraph describing where it’s from and what it tastes like, which is great if you need help deciding. Although the menu includes a few choices by the glass, nearly all are sold by the bottle. Prices range from a reasonable £40 (Gallimard Cuvee Reserve Brut NV) to an eyebrow-raising £1,600 (Pol Roger Brut Nebuchadnezzar).

Several Champagne cocktails also grace the menu at just under £10. Kettners Champagne Cocktail is a pretty amber colour, made with Calvados, Champagne, a bright twist orange peel and a maraschino cherry. The Champagne is nice and sharp, and it’s the ideal choice if you’re looking for a heavier cocktail that’s not too sweet. The Fraise Royal, on the other hand, is about as girly as you can get, with strawberry puree, fraise de bois and Champagne, complete with a big strawberry on the side for garnish. The strawberry puree tastes fresh, and despite all the fruit flavours, it’s well balanced and not sickly sweet.

If you find yourself at Kettner’s Champagne Bar despite not being much of a fan of bubbly, a short wine list is available, along with three beers. Prices for wine start from £7.25 a glass and £27 a bottle for a 2007 Saint-Veran Domaine Michel Chavet from Burgundy and rise to £46 for a bottle of 2005 Gigondas Domaine Raspail-Ay from Rhone. Beers (Kasteel Cru, Kasteel Cru Rose and Leffe Blonde) are £4.50. Traditional cocktails (Martinis, Manhattans, Bloody Marys and Cosmopolitans) are £8.50 and virgin cocktails and fruit juices are also on offer.

The Last Word
A good choice if you’re looking to impress a date with a sophisticated drink. And if all that alcohol enhances your sweet tooth, don’t miss the Pudding Room in the adjoining restaurant.

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