Do you believe your body is a temple? If so, what better place to worship than at Kikii. This new venture — above the Runway nightclub in the West End — celebrates modern pan-Asian food, with fresh ingredients and vibrant flavours that hit the taste buds from all angles.

The Venue
Named for general manager Ibo Hoxha’s little daughter, who celebrated her first birthday this month (February), Kikii is the first of what is hoped to be a major brand — a further opening is planned for Soho. The team behind it includes chef Kiran Deshmukh and a team whose exuberant enthusiasm for the restaurant and its food is delightfully infectious.

The Atmosphere
Kikii, in its first incarnation at least, is somewhat bijou, with space for thirty diners. But elegant decor and clever lighting make it feel spacious as well as intimate — a neat trick. The windows out on to New Oxford Street are partly frosted, avoiding the goldfish bowl effect you sometimes get with places on a busy thoroughfare. Purple lighting over the bar adds sensuous warmth and clusters of low lights over the tables give privacy without being too bright or too dark.

The Food
You can see why the team is so excited. Kikii’s menu is not extensive — actually rather refreshing in these days of plenty — but a lot of thought has obviously gone into its conception. Chef Kiran’s mission statement is “satiate your senses”. Starters thus include scallops on a raw mango and papaya salad (£7.95), where three good-sized scallops are perfectly cooked — nicely caramelised on the outside, just opaque within. The crunch of the salad sets off their yielding succulence. A salad of smoked duck (£6.25) features Chinese lettuce mixed with fine beans, raw mango and Indonesian pears - a crisp contrast to the soft duck, of which there are three generous slices.

An Indonesian dish appears among the mains, in the gorgeous guise of nasi goreng (£12.95), a fragrant fusion of fried rice, bean sprouts, chicken and prawns, seasoned with garlic and tamarind and topped with a fried egg — cooked to your liking. Despite the fried rice, it is light and far from greasy, and complemented by pickled cucumber. A cornucopia of crunch, you might say. A whole sea bass (£14.95) is served in a bamboo steamer, with a veritable allotment of al dente vegetables — broccoli, carrots, mange tout and sweetcorn. It comes with delicate jasmine rice and a zingy coconut dipping sauce. You can almost feel your body rejoicing.

That probably won’t last through pudding, though. A crème brulee, once you crack through its thin crust, is light and luscious, while a chocolate mousse is laced with a hint of spice, which includes chocolate’s very fine bedfellow, cumin. Senses most definitely satiated, chef.

The Drink
From the senses to the senseless, if you allow yourself to indulge too heavily in Kikii’s exceptional cocktails. The signature Kikii Kiss — a vodka-based concoction with blackberry and raspberry liqueurs, and fresh berries and pineapple, is smooth and fruity but packs a powerful punch. And how can anyone stop at just one kiss? The mojito is quite possibly the best you’ll ever taste, while other gems include one specially created for Valentine’s Day, with strawberry and chilli, and a Porn Star Martini. Don’t ask, but it comes with a Champagne shot. . . If you’re not on the floor before the wine comes, do try the albarino, a steely dry steal at £28. The whites also feature a Cloudy Bay sauvignon, a gem that is increasingly hard to find, at £35, while among the reds you will find the pinot noir equivalent at £32. House white and red, both Chevalier Delatour, are a very reasonable £15.

The Last Word
Good quality Oriental fare and a seductive setting make Kikii a superb choice. Go and get your senses sated.

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