12 Old Compton Street,
Soho,
London,
W1D 4TQ
(020) 7437 7820
The ViewLondon Review
Previously LAB, and more recently known as Academy, this bar still has a major part to play in the capital’s cocktail culture and retains its crown as one of the best cocktail bars in London.
The Venue
Lab – Academy (or simply the Academy) hasn’t changed much from its LAB days. The front is a vibrant blue with a large sign declaring its new name but inside it’s the same laid back style. Woods dominate and the central bar takes pride of place with a few high stools and limited seating. Downstairs there is more comfortable lounging seating if you really want to sit down. It’s also where the ladies toilets are located, charmingly labelled ‘bitches’. Really. It’s simple and to the point: a blank canvas on which the cocktails are allowed to shine.
The Atmosphere
Academy is serious about its cocktails and the bar staff really know their stuff. It’s the kind of in-depth knowledge that sets this bar apart from the hundreds of carbon copies that have tried to emulate it since. The staff have a passion for their trade that is infectious and here cocktails border on an art form. However, it’s also a fun, laid back bar that doesn’t take itself too seriously. Perhaps something of a contradiction but that’s what makes this place special. If you don’t care about the spirits used in your drink or the craft that has gone into inventing each innovative concoction then it doesn’t matter – you can pop in, enjoy a delicious drink and get lost in the banter and the upbeat atmosphere. It works whatever you’re looking for.
The Drink
Academy does some of the best cocktails in the capital. They make them fast, they produce them to a consistently high quality and it’s all seemingly effortless.
If you like easy to drink, fruity cocktails then the Patatina (Stoli, fraise de bois, fresh strawberries, balsamic vinegar, Perrier Jouet; £7) is delicious with a strong strawberry flavour and a sweet aftertaste balanced by balsamic vinegar and the bubbles of the champagne. It’s a great example of the attention to detail that this bar is famous for. Also good is the popular Coleraine Cooler (Zubrowka, apple and lime juice, apple schnapps, vanilla sugar, fresh mint, Goldschlager; £7) which tastes like an apple pie with a strong hit of cinnamon complementing the sweetness of the apple. However, if you like easy to drink cocktails then the Tiramisu (Patron XO cafe tequila, Mozart white and dark chocolate liqueur, mascarpone cheese, espresso) is the star. With mascarpone cheese and chocolate liqueur it’s not the kindest on the waistline but it’s creamy and delicious with a sweet coffee flavour that’s more like a milkshake than an alcoholic beverage.
Prefer your drinks stronger? Then try an alternative to a Manhattan – a Brooklyn – for a strong hit of alcohol that’s well mixed or, of course, their choice of martinis is excellent. If you know what you like then they’re also happy to mix off-menu selections, showing off their bar skills to good effect. It’s easy to believe that you can order any of the drinks on the lengthy menu and guarantee they’ll be of an excellent quality. There aren’t many bars that can claim that.
The Last Word
Lab - Academy has an excellent reputation for a reason. The fact that it’s a popular spot with bar staff from neighbouring bars in and around Soho speaks volumes. For guaranteed excellent cocktails at decent prices, good banter and an upbeat, fun atmosphere then this is a bar that’s sure to deliver.
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