339 Battersea Park Road,
Battersea,
London,
SW11 4LS
(020) 7622 2112
The ViewLondon Review
Worried about getting lost in Battersea? Now there’s an excellent reason to make the trip.
The Venue
Battersea is a rather odd area. Lacking a tube, Londoners who don’t hail from the area – especially those that live north of the river – may not feel inclined to make the rather arduous bus or train journey to this neck of the woods. However, Battersea Park Road finally has a destination venue that makes the trip worth it. If you can forgive the rather bleak length of road, you’ll be glad you made the effort as the kitsch, kooky world of Lost Angel envelops you.
Stepping through the doors of what looks from the outside to be little more than a traditional pub, you’ll immediately face an assault on the senses. The main room is spacious and makes up the bar area. A circular bar flanked by simple high leather bar stools sits in the centre of the space, flanked by simple tables and dark leather booths. However, the dark wooden decor is lifted by clever, seemingly effortless design touches from the trumpet light fittings hanging from the ceiling to a large portrait of the queen adorning a large wall and an old fashioned phone box nestling quietly in a corner. A whole section of the wall is covered in an evocative painting of a forest scene with a lost angel, a nod to its name. Granny lamps add a cool, living room chic style to the space and heavy drapes add a theatrical edge. On the far wall sit two glass display cases, one housing a squirrel (keep an eye out and you’ll spy squirrels indulging in all manner of activities strewn about the bar), the other housing a white marble-effect bust of a man with big earphones on his head. These bizarre touches are charming and you’ll be hard pushed to notice everything on your first visit.
Walking through into the back room you’ll find a quieter space used for dining and, later in the evening, dancing. A smaller second bar nestles in the corner with more squirrels and a stuffed jay. The furnishings and decor consist of more of the same dark woods as the bar and simple tables unadorned by tablecloths. However, this simplicity is counteracted by the main focal point of this space – a heavy chandelier-style light fitting enshrouded with roses that sits in a glass ceiling alcove, covered with ivy and Sistine Chapel style imagery. Candles add a romantic glow to the area and granny lamps overhanging the bar and strewn across the walls create a warm ambience. A fireplace in red is also comforting, with a large candle sat in its pit. Above this is a looming, almost eerie painting of two Victorian-style figures, with an angel shadow lurking in the background. Past this area is a secreted away garden, resplendent with twinkling fairylights and attractive plants. The decor is pretty much flawless.
The Atmosphere
If you walk along from the bottom end of Battersea Park Road you'll be forgiven for thinking you’ve perhaps strayed into unsavoury territory; however, like most long roads in London, this street encompasses less affluent areas as well as those with houses worth at least half a million and owners with the disposable income to match. These are the people you’re more likely to find at Lost Angel along with a few local office workers. The atmosphere is laid back with a fun edge and the friendly, knowledgeable staff are efficient and open to a bit of friendly banter. The local feel to the place isn’t exclusive, however, and new faces are welcomed with the same ease as the regulars.
Although this is the sister bar of the award-winning Lost Society, the music has less of a house sway than its popular Clapham sibling with an indie, disco funk and electro edge to the tunes played by the DJ with remixed classics and even a bit of harmless cheese thrown in for good measure. As the evening wears on the punters are unabashed in their desire to throw shapes in the bar.
The Food
Although this is primarily a bar, Lost Angel offers a surprising menu of top-quality food for reasonable prices given the fine dining quality of the dishes best enjoyed in the attractive dining room.
Starters like the salmon blini with creme fraiche, chives and lemon oil (£6.95) are exquisite. The salmon is rich and generously portioned, the creamy texture and flavours of the creme fraiche perfectly balancing the strong, salty undertone of the salmon. The lemon oil cuts through each mouthful perfectly, with just the right amount of zesty flavour to not overpower the fish. The blini is light and almost melts in the mouth, acting as an excellent base to the dish. Alternatively, the ballotine of fois gras, red onion confit and toasted brioche (£8.50) is a recommended choice for those who prefer their starters a little meatier. The fois gras is generously portioned and excellent quality. The creamy flavour isn’t overly potent but still retains the richness you associate with such a dish. The red onion confit adds a delightful tang to the fois gras and the perfectly crisp brioche finishes each mouthful off with aplomb. Highly recommended.
Mains fare equally well and are reasonably priced given the portion sizes and quality of the ingredients. The roast belly of pork with fondant potato, honey roast carrots and seasonal greens (£13.50) is especially excellent for its price point. Sitting in a rich gravy, the pork belly is perfectly cooked, tender so it flakes off the fork and full of rich, meaty, almost sweet flavours underlined by the delicious veins of fat that are melted throughout with a crunchy crackling atop. The slightly sweet carrots are an excellent accompaniment, as are the iron-heavy, soft greens. The potato is a circular, crisp fondant that isn’t heavy on the stomach and allows the pork to shine. Alternatively, the grilled 8oz steak with chips, salad, bearnaise sauce and roasted bone marrow is an inventive twist to the classic that is far more impressive than it sounds. The steak is cooked perfectly to specification, the tender, juicy meat not requiring a steak knife. The bearnaise sauce is rich and creamy and the roasted bone marrow, appearing in a beautifully presented bone almost like a fat straw, is filled with marrow that you can suck out in a perhaps unattractive but certainly appealing way. A large side bowl of salted chips is an accompaniment that works well in its simplicity and a second side bowl of a beautifully dressed, crisp salad is extremely impressive (included in the price). The mix of lettuce leaves is colourful and crunchy, and the lightly vinegary dressing is exquisite. For just £15.50, this dish is a steal.
Finally, desserts (£5) don’t disappoint. The pistachio ice cream is creamy and has a pleasant homemade appeal, although it’s the creme brulee that really shines. Appearing in a larger dish than you may expect, the perfectly caramalised crisp top conceals an incredibly creamy, flavoursome middle that’s easily the match of many high end restaurants. You’ll be hard pushed to find a better example of the dish.
The Drink
There’s an impressive, well described wine selection catering for most budgets and tastes. For a truly exceptional bottle, opt for the Parducci Pinot Noir 2006 (£26). A rich red wine with dark berry and plum notes and a hint of cocoa that slips down easily. It’s just one of several well chosen bottles that make your selection a truly pleasurable one. Also recommended is a glass of Champagne before your meal, with a delicious, crisp glass of Moultard Cuvee Reserve NV coming in at just £6.95 a glass.
If you’re drinking in the bar, the lengthy, well priced cocktail list is the tempting choice. You can choose from the classics or unique Lost Angel twists and concoctions (£6.50-£8.50). Pick from innovative mixes like Camparlychee (fresh passion juice, campari, lychee liqueur, orange and lime juice), Red Dragon (black cherry jam, cherry vodka, cherry Marnier, pomegranate, raspberry puree, cranberry juice) and Peary Mason (rhubarb vodka, pear jam, rhubarb liqueur, lemon juice and egg white). The Peary Mason is especially worthy of note. Simply presented with limited garnishing, the cocktail itself does the talking. A strongly sweet flavour is cut through by the delicate tartness of the rhubarb and lemon juice. The egg white adds a nice, slightly thick consistency that makes it a real delight to drink.
A long list of top quality premium spirits and a comprehensive selection of beers complete the list. Aspalls Cider is available on draught for £3.50 a pint and you can choose from bottles of Carlton Cold, Brahma, Estrella Damm and Grolsch Swing or Thatchers Pear cider.
The Last Word
This bar certainly makes up for lost time and adds an angelic edge to Battersea Park Road. The Lost Angel is a destination bar that’s worth seeking out.
Lost Angel has been reviewed by 20 users