85 Fleet Street,
Holborn,
London,
EC4Y 1AE
(020) 7583 8385
The ViewLondon Review
If you can’t afford the restaurant or get in as a member then Lutyens Bar is the ideal way of experiencing the overt glamour of this all-purpose venue.
The Venue
Lutyens is located in an old Reuters building on Fleet Street, which gives it instant character. It’s spread across a restaurant, bar and members' club and was designed by top designer Terence Conran. So dedicated was he to his creation that he even donated several of his personal art pieces to the venue and there are a collection of Samuel Pepys and Lutyens literature available in the members' area. However, far from OTT pomp, Lutyens Bar is actually relaxed and surprisingly understated. The bar is the centrepiece to the room – and rightly so – and has an almost speakeasy feel to it, with glassware hanging from above, an array of spirits and decorative embellishments on the wall behind. A row of high black stools span the bar and are surprisingly comfortable. Otherwise, seating comes courtesy of black tables and high-backed wooden chairs. Artwork in the form of interesting, eye-catching prints cover the walls and, most interesting, is the wooden floor covered in digital numbers designed to look like stock tickers. Otherwise, the white walls and large windows keep things light and airy – not a difficult feat given the high ceilings of the space.
The Atmosphere
Lutyens Bar attracts more than its fair share of well to do Londoners and glitterati. However, based as it is in Fleet Street, you’ll also find a large contingent of suits from the nearby offices. Don’t dress to impress and you run the risk of sticking out like a sore thumb. That said, there is a certain laid back ambience to the bar, maybe because the prices aren’t prohibitively expensive. And the staff are incredibly attentive and really care about their craft. If you can, sit up to the bar and chat to the staff who really know how to mix a cocktail and have a real passion for it.
The Food
Breakfast and lunch are served at Lutyens Bar, albeit on a less grand scale than in the restaurant, and the prices are surprisingly good. Dishes include everything from fish soup, quail Scotch eggs and rock oysters, mixed with burgers, fish and chips, and steaks, with prices pitched at the £5-£16 mark.
The Drink
The drink menu is exhaustive at Lutyens Bar, spanning cocktails, wines, champagne (naturally) and beer. The cocktails are particularly inventive and well priced at £9.50, including innovative options like the Hot Buttered Guinness (Guinness, Courvoisier Exclusif cognac, spiced syrup and unsalted butter). Yes, that’s a cocktail with Guinness. The wine list is particularly lengthy for a bar and starts at just £18, whilst the beers include Peroni Nastro Azzurro, Pilsner Urquell, Guinness on draught, Peroni Gran Reserva, Aspall's Suffolk Cider and Timothy Taylor's Landlord ale.
The Last Word
Lutyens Bar is a little piece of attainable glamour in the heart of the City.
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