One of London’s best mainline station bars, the surprisingly ornate Mad Bishop and Bear is worth a visit even if you’re not travelling through Paddington, particularly for its fine range of Fuller’s beers.

The Venue
You’ll find the pub at the top of the escalators in the Lawns, the food and shopping hall on the site of the original concourse of Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s imposing station. Before you go up, look for the small statue of Michael Bond’s much loved children’s character Paddington, one of the partners in the pub name. The other was the Bishop of London, whose diocese owned the land on which the station was built, and who sold it to the railway for an insanely low price. The single bar is unexpectedly spacious and elegant, with pillars, mirrors, a decorated ceiling and a five tiered chandelier, a bit like a grand ballroom, but cleverly deployed partitions create more intimate corners. Live departure screens will helpfully ensure you don’t get too easily sidetracked if you’ve a train to catch.

The Atmosphere
Inevitably a lot of customers are passing through, but as they have to make a bit of an effort to reach the place they tend to be more than usually appreciative of the fare on offer, and the staff are notably friendly given the location, almost achieving a local feel. It’s also a popular and convenient spot for informal business meetings.

The Food
Breakfasts go on sale when the pub opens at 8am and stay on menu all day. They’re later joined by other slightly upmarket pub and caff grub like sandwiches, burgers, scampi, pasta dishes, sausages, pies and vegetarian options, with main courses between £8 and £10.

The Drink
In a place like a train station where many retail outlets rely on a captive market and don’t bother to make a special effort, it’s always pleasing to find somewhere that bucks the trend. The special effort here is in showcasing Fuller’s beer. Chiswick, Discovery, ESB and London Pride are regularly on handpump, with either a Fuller’s seasonal or an occasional guest - perhaps something like St Austell Tribute. Then there’s around 10 bottled beers from the brewery including strong and serious stuff like Brewer’s Reserve, Vintage Ale and Gale’s Prize Old Ale, alongside keg Honey Dew and standard lagers and stouts. Reasonable wines and a range of hot drinks complete the picture.

The Last Word
There are lots of great Fuller’s pubs in the capital, but this is actually a top choice as a showcase for the historic brewery’s beer in central London. And it's very handy for the train too!

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