Camden's Roundhouse has long staged innovative, varied and achingly cool concerts. Since October 2010 it's been able to boast a modern British tapas restaurant to match. And eating here isn't even a guilty pleasure, as profits help disadvantaged young Londoners.

The Venue
The Roundhouse is a handsome and unmistakeable North London landmark. Now Grade II-listed, it was originally a mid-19th century turntable railway engine shed (or 'roundhouse'). Made in Camden occupies the curving segment of its circular ground floor that previously housed The Roundhouse Cafe. The 100 covers are divided into sections off a central bar to give, along with moody lighting, some cosiness. There's dark wood, grey herringbone and red upholstery, banquets, stylishly severe metal chairs, and avant garde, ever-so-Camden mood music.

The Atmosphere
As you might expect its busy and vibrant both before and after the shows, and quieter at other times. The menu changes to fit the concerts - as indeed does the clientele - and service is charming, well-paced and helpful; how often does a waitress advise you (wisely) to order less?

The Food
Fifteen small plates feature ingredients de nos jours like wood pigeon, pork belly, pomegranate molasses and pea shoots, and two to three of these dishes per person should suffice. Red onion tatin with goat's cheese, cucumber and dill (£6.90) is the only minor disappointment. The pastry is barely noticeable and there's a slight grittiness, possibly from a carelessly washed salad leaf. The pickled cucumber is a tad overpowering, but the cheese and toasted hazelnuts work brilliantly. Silky chicken liver parfait (£6.90) is beautifully offset by figgy spiced plum chutney and its rye croute is fabulously thin, crisp and flavoursome but tripling the quantity would be helpful.

Spiced calamari, butternut squash, chilli jam and cashew nuts (£6.90) is an audacious combination which works. The squid is light and crisp, whilst the squash's sweetness balances the jam's bold spiciness. Char-grilled scallops (£9.90) arrive deliciously, daringly rare with delicious chorizo and a smear of intense celeriac puree, but some might find the peppered satsuma segments an innovation too far. A pan-fried mackerel fillet (£8.90) is juicy with impeccably crisped skin. The accompanying sweet beetroot mousse and wasabi apple coleslaw work perfectly - the whole dish is a triumph.

At many restaurants, desserts seem an afterthought but here they trump even the clever, well-executed savouries. Earl Grey brulee (£5.50) is delicately infused and softly textured with a thin, crisp, burnt sugar top. Punchy prune puree and feather-light shortbread complete this outstanding dish. Peanut parfait with chocolate mousse and salted butter caramel, dusted with chocolate hazelnut powder (£5) is one to swoon over; it's crunchy, nutty, buttery, deeply chocolatey and obscenely moreish. These puds would hold their own at London's finest restaurants.

The Drink
There are sixteen unusual cocktails (£6.95-£7.95) which the list modestly says the staff 'made up', with cool names that nod to the main business of The Roundhouse, like Yoko Installation, Wah Wah Pedal and Zeppelin Marriage. Classic cocktails are also available on request if none of these tickle your fancy. Beers are taken unusually seriously, with three from the Camden Town Brewery on draught, and eighteen lagers, ales, wheat and fruit beers by the bottle.

As for wine, there are six sparkling options, fifteen whites, a trio of roses and seventeen reds, all of them (Champagne excluded) under £50, with a reasonable selection by the (unusually small) 125ml or 175ml glass. The crisp, refreshing house white, Alto Bajo Sauvignon Blanc from Chile (£2.75/£4.20/£16.50) represents good value. The same priced house red, a Merlot by the same producer for the same price, is surprisingly light but equally enjoyable.

Dessert wines are outstanding. Chateau Loupiac-Gaudiet, a semillon/sauvignon blanc from Bordeaux (£7 for 125ml/£21 a 375ml bottle) starts rich and honeyed then sharpens up brilliantly on the finish. A red grenache, Maury Grenat Els Pyreneus from Roussillon (£8/£32) is a plummy, bold, intense delight.

The Last Word
Don't wait until you see a concert at The Roundhouse; its new restaurant is an event in itself. Expect to pay £35-£40 a head including half a bottle of modest wine, which, for food of this quality, is approaching a steal. And the fact that all profits go to The Roundhouse Trust leaves a very pleasant taste in the mouth indeed.

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