211 Lordship Lane,
Dulwich,
London,
SE22 8HA
(020) 8299 4116
The ViewLondon Review
It might be a bit of a trek up Lordship Lane but the Magnolia is well worth the extra effort. If you’re looking for a pub quiz, a quiet drink or some good food, walk the extra five minutes and you might find something a little different to the rest of the Lane.
The Venue
Situated between the police station and the library, you could easily miss the Magnolia if you’re not seeking it out. The Mag, as it is affectionately nicknamed by the locals, is on the corner with discreet signage outside. It’s worth the effort, though, as quality cooking means that it compares favourably with the other bars and restaurants closer to the station.
The Atmosphere
Brightly lit, it feels like a day-time spot at first. However, many punters get comfortable and linger. A dining area is situated at the back with an open plan, tiny kitchen containing chefs slaving over meal after meal. The majority of the space is taken up by the dining tables which are crammed in next to each other, and during the day they are packed full of Dulwich families – you can’t be child-phobic here. The front area is simply for drinking and it regularly bulges with drinkers.
One thing to note is that the service is hit and miss. You can find yourself having to go up to the bar to remind the bar staff you are there, but on another day you could find yourself chatting away to the waiting staff about the local area and the ingredients cooked they use. Regular events include a pub quiz on a Sunday that offers a substantial prize, and Paradiso, a community-run film society that runs regular film festivals upstairs.
The Food
The Sunday roasts are easily among the best on the road, served the colour you ask for if you’re ordering beef and the size you dream of if you’re ordering pork belly. The vegetarian option is much more than a token effort, too. Being a child-friendly venue, they also offer a child’s portion size which is still fairly substantial.
The Drink
They have an adequate selection on tap, including San Miguel, Staropramen and a couple of ales, with several more bottled varieties in the fridge. Expect to pay Lordship Lane prices: around the four pounds mark for a pint. Highlights from the wine list include a blackberry-scented Malbec, at £18.50. Their spirits are a little extra from the norm, their gins include a Hendricks’s and will be served without prompting with a slice of cucumber.
The Last Word
A perfect stop-off for Sunday lunch, the Mag beats to the sound of its own drum. If you can deal with the kids, it’s a good option.
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