23-24 Greek Street,
Soho,
London,
W1D 4DZ
(020) 7734 7006
The ViewLondon Review
Maison Touareg is welcoming and laid back, the food generous and authentic and the service friendly and attentive. It stands as a refuge amongst the bustle of the West End.
The Venue
Located on a bustling corner of Greek Street in the heart of the West End, Maison Touareg is easily identifiable by the relaxed groups sitting outside under its extended canopy smoking shishas. The restaurant’s owner can often be found amongst them, ready to welcome in diners. Getting closer, the smell of grilled meats is enticing and enough to transport you out of London and into Morocco or Lebanon – the cuisines which the restaurant serves.
The Atmosphere
Stepping into Maison Touareg and being welcomed by the attentive staff, a much more personal feeling is achieved than is usual for a busy London restaurant. The patterned carpeted floor and cushioned seats add not only Middle Eastern authenticity but also homeliness. This is heightened by the intricate architecture which splits what could be a very large room into smaller, more personal, alcoves. You’re immediately presented with olives and other nibbles to enjoy whilst browsing the menu and it is clear that hospitality is of great importance. Diners are treated less like customers than like friends, with staff making jovial conversation and eager to adapt dishes and menus to suit.
The Food
Maison Touareg’s menu is extensive. Mezze, kebabs and tagines are included in all their guises along with roast meats, tabboulehs and pilafs. From now commonplace dishes such as hummus and dolmades to more unusual specialties such as pastila (honeyed filo pie with chicken), the menu spans the whole range of Moroccan and Lebanese cuisine rather than stopping at just the safer options. Given the vast range on offer, the suggested selection menus are a useful aide, although the ever-willing staff are also happy to guide.
A starter mezze platter from one of the set menus is exceptionally generous in both quantity and content. A garlicky hummus is rich with tahini and lavished with olive oil. Sambousek pastries are stuffed full with cheese and spinach. Falafel are aromatically spiced and not at all greasy. A broad bean dip is full of fresh parsley. Little turnovers are filled with finely minced lamb and vividly spiced. A basketful of warm flatbread is brought out in accompaniment and topped up for the main course without even having to ask.
Continuing the set menu, the main course comprises of three tagines, couscous and a selection of kebabs. A lamb tagine with prunes is sweet with honey and cinnamon and the lamb tender and succulent. A chicken tagine is intricately spiced and lemony, whilst a vegetable tagine of aubergines, courgettes and carrots is hotter with a definite taste of harissa. The couscous is ideal for mopping up the juices and comes with a cinnamon flavoured caramelised onion jam, which makes a nice accompaniment to the meaty kebabs. Chicken and lamb are again included as is a Merguez-style beefy minced kofte which is spicy and salty and highly addictive. Sides of parsley, tomatoes, onions and lemon wedges are a nice addition and add to the feeling of generosity.
The pudding menu is almost as comprehensive as the main one. Rice puddings, fruit compotes and stuffed pancakes are included in numerous varieties. Baklava are the obvious choice, though, and come in a myriad of flavours. The selection which concludes the set menu is consists of at least six varieties, all seemingly home-made and filled with pistachios, apricots, almonds and figs and scented with flower waters, cinnamon and aromatic honey - a perfectly sweet end to the meal. At approximately £25-£30 for a set meal without drinks or sides, Maison Touareg isn’t cheap, but certainly is reasonable.
The Drink
The drinks menu has all the usual suspects along with a Moroccan beer which, though not different from other lagers, is a nice touch and adds to the feeling of authenticity. Wines are available by bottle or glass and reasonably priced. The drinks which are much more interesting, though, are the teas. Their sweet mint tea is lively and refreshing – and if you can cope with all the sugar, a perfect accompaniment to the baklava. It comes served in a traditional pot with tea glasses and the waiters’ pouring it traditionally from a great height is something of a show in itself.
The Last Word
From the service to the setting, the food and the drink, Maison Touareg is high quality and enormously authentic and, most of all, fun. Highly recommended.
Maison Touareg has been reviewed by 17 users