More of a bar/restaurant than a traditional pub, the Masons Arms rises above the neighbouring grubby take-aways with reasonably priced gourmet food in a chilled-out, quirky environment.

The Venue
From the outside, the Masons Arms looks like your average, run-of-the-mill pub. But inside is a foodie’s haven, in stark contrast to the off-licences, kebab shops and dirty foot paths that surround it. Sophisticated food in a relaxed, open-plan setting is what this pub is all about. While there is a large bar, it’s overshadowed by the bright lights of the open kitchen and the large wooden tables and park bench-style seats occupy most of the room. Basic yet appealing, the decor is modern rustic, with wooden tables and chairs and black and white walls. The black of the walls double as chalkboards, with quirky quotes from musicians or details of the pub’s most recent fundraising efforts.

The Atmosphere
There is nothing high-brow or uptight about this place, and it’s certainly not rowdy or run-down, like you might expect from the area. You’d be forgiven for confusing the staff with the customers as they’re dressed in casual chequered shirts and jeans, with casual, friendly attitudes to match. A great range of indie music, including Fleet Foxes and MGMT, sets the mood, while comedy radio plays in the toilets – symbolic of the venue’s quirky charm. Despite all this, it’s clear the impressive menu and relaxed vibe are what draw the crowd of mostly young-to-middle-aged professionals. There’s no rule against treating this pub as exactly that, and dropping in for a beer or two. But there’s a huge chance that the smells from the kitchen will prove too much to resist.

The Food
From the moment you step inside the smells hit you and it becomes instantly clear that the Masons Arms staff love their food. The daily changing menu isn’t extensive, but there are enough options to satisfy all tastes. Soups are a rare find in the summer months, but the roast red pepper and tomato soup served with the Masons’ house-made bread (£5) is worth sweating for. As rich in colour as it is in taste, the roasted vegetables work together to create an aromatic flavour, and the fluffy white bread, which is freshly cut in front of you, completes the dish. However, the chargrilled squid (£7) is less impressive. The sweet chilli sauce does add some zing to the bland squid, but it fails to disguise the rubbery texture. The risotto (£10.75) makes up for it, though; ripe roast cherry tomatoes and salty Parmesan cheese are the dominant flavours, while the spring onions and rocket bring contrasting flavours. Dessert options are limited, but inviting. The well-presented summer pudding is a berry-soaked sponge, bursting with blackberry and raspberry flavours (£5). The strawberry ice-cream that accompanies it is made from real strawberries and the creamy, subtle taste helps tone down the pudding’s strong flavour.

The Drink
The wine list is diverse, albeit slightly on the pricey side, offering whites, reds and rosés from around the world, carefully chosen by the Australian manager. The house white is an easy-to-drink South African Chenin Blanc, while the house red is a Pinot Noir, from Trivento Mendoza in Argentina, and both cost £16 for a bottle, £3.95 for a small glass). Wines from New Zealand, Spain, Italy, Australia and England also feature; the most expensive white is the 2005 Meursault, Guy Bocard from France at £50, while you’ll pay £65 for the priciest red, the 1996 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon, from Chateau Malartic Lagraviere in France.

The selection of beers and ales is less extensive, but you’ll find all the usual suspects on tap, including Fuller's ales, Carling, Peroni and Guinness, with prices starting at £3.85.

The Last Word
Meals that are fresh and bursting with flavour combined with friendly staff make this tucked-away little pub well worth a visit.

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