Nestled in upmarket Heddon Street, Momo exudes class and exclusivity, appealing to well-to-do Mayfair folk and those on-trend from further afield.

The Venue
Momo is certainly an enchanting place. The inspiration behind its design comes from the Parisian-Algerian bistros of north Africa, complete with architecture borrowed from the Maghreb (think chalky white walls with rough, rounded edges; a central dome; ornate paneled windows and a cave topped by a skylight). The décor, though, is a mix of Europe and the Middle East: a large glass chandelier; mix and match tables in marble and wood; gilded statues of Moors; lush vegetation outside each window and intricate metalwork, all combining to create an exotic scenario. Whether you sit in the restaurant, the tearoom or the very impressive terrace, it’s easy for the imagination to fly to Tunis, Tangiers or Algiers.

The Atmosphere
Despite the luxurious setting, the mandate here is understatement. The charming staff may be vocal in their welcome at the door but it's all smooth whispers and truly excellent service in the restaurant. Momo’s clients are a real mix of the well-heeled (architects, successful bankers and even a celebrity or two), but the red carpet here is invisible, and offered to all. You might find yourself sitting slightly too close to your neighbours (a democratic but not always welcome move) and the music may border on the loud, but all of this is part of the appeal for most. If it's not for you, visit early in the week.

The Food
The open plan kitchen serves mezze on the terrace (with some particularly good hummus, mechouia, kofta and zaalouk) and North African dishes in the restaurant. The dinner menu at £52 per person isn't exactly cheap but is pretty good value when both portion sizes and quality are considered.

Within the starters (£7-£11.50), the assortment of briouats (small crispy pastries) brings together cheese and mint, and seafood and coriander parcels, as well as a chicken and saffron stick, all served with a gorgeous, soft quince jam that works wonders in lightening the fried pastry. Harira, the traditional Berber soup of Morocco, is a classic done well. Aromatic and slightly spicy thanks to a spike of coriander oil, this vegetable soup is comforting and moreish, even if it's not hugely distinctive. Try the wood pigeon pastille or stuffed aubergine, instead.

The mains (£18.50-£59) revolve around couscous, tagines and chef’s specials. Both tagines are suitably long-cooked and deliciously traditional. The chicken tagine boasts strong citrus elements thanks to judicious amounts of lemon rind that lightens all the excellent spicing, whilst the vegetable version includes European seasonal vegetables such as asparagus and fennel. The desserts (£7-£8.50) combine the best of France with influences from further afield, with crêpes, macaroons and pastries infused with ingredients from the Middle East.

The Drink
Classic and house cocktails (£9) are the highlight here. The Momo Special (vodka, mint, lemon juice, sugar, soda) is the venue's piece de resistance but there are certainly more to try - not least the Te Quiero (tequila, vermouth, lime, grenadine and egg white), which is original, very good and all too easy to drink. Perusing the wine list is certainly rewarding too. French wines mingle with those from more exotic locations such as Morocco, Santorini, Lebanon, Hungary and Georgia. Prices vary from the affordable (glasses from £5.65, bottles from £19) to the pricey (past the £100 mark) but the fact that there's a very good range and that some are served by the half bottle, means there's plenty of scope whatever your budget.

The Last Word
Momo excels with its décor and wine list. The food, which is traditional and home-cooked, is possibly the most genuine North African fare you can get in London. And although at times it can lacks the quality typical of high profile restaurants, it's definitely still worth sampling.

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