After a lavish refurbishment, Morton’s, the infamous Mayfair members’ club with a rich history dating back decades, means business, and if you’re after one of the most captivating views you can find at a dinner table in London and love nothing more than to be surrounded by world-class art, then you’ll want to join the club.

The Venue
Standing in an enviable position in one of London’s most desirable postcodes, Morton’s inhabits an impressive Georgian townhouse overlooking Berkeley Square. Walking around the pristine 4-storey building is akin to walking around someone’s house from the Rich List, albeit someone who is a fervent collector and exhibitor of world-class art. At every turn you’re confronted with a thing of beauty - an original Matisse here, portraits by Julian Opie (famed for his iconic Blur album artwork) there. If you have more than a passing interest in the world of art, you'll be mesmerised by the variety and quality of the pieces on display.

One of the biggest selling points for any members’ club – being able to enjoy a late drink at leisure – is catered for on the ground floor which acts as a buzzy, inviting space with a 3am closing time. Down in the basement, a customised club-style area with exposed brickwork, a DJ booth and jet-black bespoke tables that hold ice and expensive bottles of booze has all the hallmarks of being ideal for late night debauchery and is doing its bit to bring a younger crowd to a club used to patrons with a few more years on the clock.

Another major selling point for Morton’s – which it’s not short of – is the view afforded by a restaurant table right next to the gaping windows on the first floor. Whilst you’re attended to with exceptional care by professional members of staff, your attention will be drawn time and time again to the beautiful vista of Berkeley Square. As a setting for a movie scene, one that acts as a love letter to the capital, this is pretty much picture perfect.

The Atmosphere
A club that’s set over several floors has its benefits – it means you can find the right surroundings to suit your mood. Feeling sociable? Head to the ground floor bar, where an animated array of members and their guests are in residence. Need to escape with your laptop for a bit of peace and quiet? There’s a light and airy room on the second floor that’s an ideal getaway.

The members’ list at Morton’s is an intriguing mix of movers and shakers including heavyweights from the nearby Conde Nast offices, senior figures from the Serpentine Gallery and a wealth of individuals from the worlds of fashion, law, finance and media.

The Food
Part of the MARC group – Marlon Abela Restaurant Corporation – Morton’s can count Michelin-starred The Green House as part of the family, so it comes as no surprise that the food is produced to exactingly high standards. The menu is pretty typical of Mayfair –seafood, game and meat make up a large proportion and you can expect impeccable service, premium ingredients and fairly hefty prices, although they’re not excessively exorbitant when compared to other equally aspirational venues in the area. It’s also worth noting that, at lunch, you can also opt for the set menu which reduces the price considerably, with 2 courses weighing in at £21.

Starters include Mediterranean fish soup and rabbit porchetta (both £9) but a foie gras terrine is a guilty pleasure that’s hard to resist. It arrives in two delicate rectangles with a silky, iron-rich flavour and it is served with a wonderfully balanced chutney, the colour of late Autumnal leaves.

Onto mains and a comprehensive list offers diners lobster, veal, monkfish and many more enticing options. The Dover sole (£30) is a lesson in classic simplicity. The quality of the fish is allowed to shine as the sole is served with just the golden coating showing its spent time under the grill. A squeeze of juice from the lemon in gauze adds an extra dimension to the dish, whilst a tart salsa verdi is also offered on the side should you so wish. Sides of steamed spinach and new potatoes (around £4) push the cost skywards, but the fact that the sole never comes off the menu at Morton’s is testament to the fact that this is one of the club’s signature and most popular dishes.

If you’re lucky enough to enjoy a meal at Morton’s, save room for dessert – they’re exceptional. The chocolate fondant (£7) takes a little extra time to prepare but you’ll have to travel a long way to find a better example of the pudding. Served at the perfect temperature, the hot and sticky sauce from inside the pudding comes flooding out on impact with your spoon and the nut-studded hazelnut ice cream on the side provides the perfect contrast of hot and cold.

The Drink
Morton’s are rightfully proud of their wine list – it’s one of the most extensive and carefully selected in the whole of London. Close links with producers from Burgundy and Bordeaux, thanks to the MARC fine wine arm of the company, means you will find vintages running into figures that could nearly buy you a Petrus 1982 at auction. Having said that, the house wine – a Morton’s own Merlot blend from France – is a mere £4.50 a glass, and great value for money it is too. The sommelier in the restaurant is on hand to make recommendations from the list of biblical proportions, and if he suggests trying a glass of a French Grenache, take him up on the offer as it’s a very special tipple, indeed.

The Last Word
Undoubtedly a very special place for lovers of art, Morton’s has the power to make you reassess any preconceptions you may have of members’ clubs. With its iconic views of Berkeley Square and homely, inviting atmosphere, a visit will leave you with the feeling that swapping your gym membership for one here might cost a little extra, but you’ll have joined the club that keeps on giving.

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