194-196 Sussex Way,
Holloway,
London,
N19 4HZ
(020) 7281 2786
The ViewLondon Review
Empty and abandoned as recently as 2007, North Nineteen, situated on a back street in Holloway, is now a vibrant steak and ale house with a growing number of customers.
The Venue
The current owners, Tony and Karen Cullen, took over this abandoned leased pub in the unpromising location of the Sussex Close estate a couple of years ago. At the time, locals had abandoned what had become a shabby, and often rowdy, bog-standard boozer. Thankfully, after a renovation and a complete change in the offering, North Nineteen looks good and feels great.
Built in 1956, it has a pleasant modern exterior. Inside is a tastefully refurbished main bar divided in two with a distinct snug area at the back. In addition, there is a separate side bar reserved for those who prefer a quieter area.
The outside areas are especially attractive. There’s a surrounding patio and a paved garden, both furnished with picnic benches, supplying nearly 90 seats in total. The garden is covered and has lighting and heating, something which smokers appreciate. The more energetic can play table tennis in the garden too.
The Atmosphere
North Nineteen admirably fulfils two roles – community pub and destination eating house. As a pub, it’s frequented by locals and by the many, often younger, flat sharers in Holloway’s Victorian terraces. It’s a traditional pub with a modern atmosphere.
Community activities are plentiful. There’s a popular and enjoyable open mic session on Tuesday evenings which gives musicians a chance to perform. On a quieter note, there’s a well-attended poker tournament held on Wednesday and the pub has a Thursday evening darts team.
The Food
Described as a steak and ale house, North Nineteen, quite predictably, specialises in steak. There are six different varieties of beef plus lamb and pork. But the menu is extensive with many a fish and vegetarian option.
North Nineteen burgers are deservedly acclaimed. They’re made from cuts of fillet, topside and sirloin and blended with caramelised onions. Equally popular is the Sunday roast. There’s a choice of four meats and a vegetarian option. Booking is highly advisable.
The Drink
Real ale takes pride of place at North Nineteen and it is listed in the Campaign For Real Ale’s Good Beer Guide and has Cask Marque accreditation for its beer standards. There are always six on hand pump and the choice rotates. Skinner’s Betty Stog’s or Cornish Knocker usually feature as do other Cornish beers like St Austell Tribute and Sharp’s Doombar. Butcombe, Hopback and Ringwood are other breweries that are chosen.
As is to be expected, the wine list complements the menu. One notable offering is an English wine – Three Choirs from Gloucestershire. Interesting also are South African signature wines – a pinotage and chenin blanc from Fleur du Cap.
Malt whiskies are another specialty. As many as 39 are stocked including the incredibly potent Glenlivet Nadurra at 57.7% and Aberlour A’bunadh at 59.7%. Also listed is the Rolls Royce of blended whiskies, Johnny Walker Blue Label.
North Nineteen also offers an extensive range of shooters and cocktails. There are original recipes. The North Nineteener, for example, is a blend of Jameson Irish whiskey, peach schnapps and ginger ale.
The Last Word
At a time when the media is laden with stories of pub failures and closures, it is refreshing to see what can be achieved with flair and commitment by canny owners, even in the midst of a recession. With its excellent food and drink offering, North Nineteen is a great example to all.
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