A handsome building with history crammed into every inch of its sturdy walls, the Old Station House sits in a domineering spot right next to Chiswick overground station and offers good food, comfortable surroundings and a very civilised air.

The Venue
Even if you live around Chiswick High Road, the OSH is a bit of a mission. A good half-hour walk or a 10-minute bus ride away, this part of Chiswick – or Grove Park to be precise – feels like a different world to the comparatively buzzing High Road. Tranquil, rural even, this part of town feels like you’re not far from open fields of the countryside, and that’s not far off the mark. The only thing directly connecting it to London are the trains running through at regular intervals to Waterloo.

The building is one of the oldest in the area – it was built at the same time as the railway line - and a conversion from its previous sticky carpets and forlorn brewery boozer days of old has paid dividends – now it’s a beautiful space, faithfully restored, with gleaming brass fixtures and polished dark woods. A dining area occupies one end of the building and it has a lovely fireplace burning brightly on colder evenings; at the opposite end it opens up into a palacious area full of huge chocolate brown leather sofas and countless mirrors. It’s all very tastefully done. With a huge outdoor space, decamping here during the warmer months appears a very good idea, especially if you’re watching the Boat Race, or a concert in the nearby Grove Park.

The Atmosphere
Busy, good-natured and assured, this is a very comfortable part of London to live in, and it shows on the contented faces of the patrons. Ant and Dec, who have properties in the area, are supposed to be fans of the Old Station House and Margaret Thatcher previously attended a fund raiser. When tyrannical former prime ministers and cheeky Geordie chappies aren’t in residence you can expect a well-spoken mix of affluent locals. Staff, however, possess European accents which adds a little more of a cosmopolitan feel to proceedings, and many of them are involved in the venue’s live jazz nights, which take place every Sunday.

The Food
For a venue that used to be all about cheap laminated deals and flat beer, there’s been some turnaround at the venue. Food now accounts for a sizeable amount of trade and it’s all very satisfying stuff.

A liberal serving of chicken liver pate (£5.50) is served with a congealed thick surface of fat protecting the smooth flavoursome pate, and several slices of toast. It’s easily enough for two and, as you’d expect, there’s a tasty sweet chutney on the side. From a specials board, located above the fireplace, a pumpkin soup is blended to a smooth, creamy consistency and has some crisp caramelised croutons on top which are infinitely preferable to the soggy variety. A different soup is served daily and costs £4.95.

A list of several mains includes a sizeable potion of salmon and smoked haddock fishcakes (£8.95). Two portly, well-seasoned fish cakes arrive with a fresh salad and a home-made tartare sauce. Overall, it is very well received. Meanwhile, the star of the show – a venison and ale pie (£10.95) served in a ceramic bowl – has a light, buttery, flaky topping. Underneath the pastry lies a stew of sorts, but you won’t find any more crust at the bottom of the bowl. Whatever your personal preference when it comes how pies should be served, this is fantastic. The chunks of venison fall apart on first contact and the gravy is meaty and hearty. A mound of perfectly smooth buttery mash (£2.50) is a good companion on the side as are some crunchy green beans, but you may not be able to finish it all seeing as the portions are on the large side.

The Drink
Wine starts at £4 a glass and £15 a bottle of South African white or French red. Prosecco is £5.50 a glass, not only cheaper than Champagne but arguably more enjoyable too. Those with a penchant for finer wines will also be buoyed by the sight of a selection of bin ends. A Barrossa Shiraz (£22) or a Chateau La Claymore (£24) are indicators that this is a list deserving of close inspection for oenophiles.

Across the pumps there are the likes of Stella, Guinness, London Pride and Staropramen, with pints costing £3.40-£3.60. Leffe Blond is also present although it is only served in half-pint measures (£3).

The Last Word
Unless you can count Ant and Dec as neighbours then you’re unlikely to find yourself regularly reclining at the Old Station House but, if you’re having a day out by the Thames, or simply passing through the train station at some point, then you can rest assured that you’re not far from one of the area’s very best public houses.

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