23 Catherine Street,
Covent Garden,
London,
WC2B 5JS
(020) 7836 3680
The ViewLondon Review
Gastropubs. They’re everywhere. And luckily it seems that the trend for these venues is on the decline. Step forward the Opera Tavern, which has instead been transformed from a boozer into a tapas bar.
The Venue
The Opera Tavern – an old, beautiful building that was built in the 1800s and is typical of Covent Garden - has been transformed inside and out with the kind of makeover most venues can only dream about. Retaining only its name, the typical pub exterior has been replaced by a sophisticated dark grey colour scheme and simple signage. Inside, the venue is equally well put together. Upstairs is a dining room with a pretty and opulent light fitting, a large wall-sized wine rack and neat little rows of tables in a neutral setting with flashes of dark red walls, exposed brick and artwork adding a funkier edge. Downstairs is more pub-like where bar stools are commonplace and a grill by the bar where you can sit up at – although these seats are very popular and fill up quickly. Think of the other popular Soho tapas spot Dehesa – run by the same people as the Opera Tavern – and you’re on the right track. It’s a nice mix of casual and more structured dining with the relaxed edge tapas always seems to bring.
The Atmosphere
The Opera Tavern has arrived with a flurry of publicity so it’s no surprising that savvy Londoners looking for the latest hot spot have latched onto this restaurant. Booking upstairs is definitely recommended at the weekend, otherwise try and get lucky with a seat downstairs – arrive earlier in the evening and you may even get to sit up to the bar where the real action happens. It’s a very upbeat place - perfectly in keeping with Covent Garden - and the crowd is made up primarily of in- the-know Londoners.
The Food
The best thing about the menu at the Opera Tavern is the social nature of the food on offer; sharing menus designed to get people interacting, from charcuterie plates to small grill dishes, bar snacks and tapas. Tapas dishes are well priced at £5 - £10 a dish and include some unusual options like sea bass carpaccio with blood orange; scallops with butternut squash puree; and gorgonzola and date croquettes, which are delicious with the strong, almost overpowering flavour of the cheese counterbalanced by the sweetness of the date. There are also more traditional favourites such as octopus and Iberico ham. From the grill, the mini Iberico and fois gras burger (£5.50) is very cute, arriving on a wooden board as a surprisingly big dish. The patty is fat and juicy with a strong, rich hit of fois gras complemented by tangy onion rings in a lightly toasted bun. And if you really just fancy a fly-by visit then the bar snacks include everything from pig’s ears to almonds. It’s this mixture that makes the Opera Tavern such a hit with drinkers and diners alike.
The Drink
The waiting team are more like sommeliers than your usual table staff, and they all seem to have a strong knowledge of the mainly-Italian and Spanish wine list. The selection includes some unusual choices from smaller producers, such as the Belondrade Y Lurton, a dry white wine rarely seen outside of Spain. They’ve also clearly put a lot of effort into their sherries and dessert wines, with a length of menu usually reserved for restaurants’ main wine selection.
The Last Word
The Opera Tavern couldn’t have moved further away from its pub roots if it tried. Thank god it hasn’t gone the gastropub route, instead morphing into a laid back Spanish restaurant.
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