Serving up decent enough tapas that is reassuringly grease-free, Ortega’s enviable location and hugely welcoming atmosphere really make it worth a visit.

The Venue
Located in Leadenhall Market, Ortega already starts off well, with views from its first and second floor windows offering the sumptuous sight of softly lit, fancy shop fronts and the warm amber glow that filters through the market. The mass of suits drinking outside the bar next door steal a little of its charm, but you’re high enough to be able to ignore it, or have a little giggle at the sight of the truly tipsy. Inside it feels every bit as warm as the market itself, with a homely combination of cosy dark woods, dim lighting, plenty of authentic Spanish decoration and the gentle murmur of appreciative diners.

The Atmosphere
The lovely, ambient feel of Ortega ensures that diners feel instantly relaxed and at home, and though it’s a stretch to say that you could be enjoying a balmy evening in Barcelona, it does have a very authentic feel. And despite the multitude of City workers milling about outside there are surprisingly few inside; Ortega seems to attract a somehow suitable crowd of daters, married couples, those catching up and the odd gaggle of girls tucking in amidst swiftly finished bottles of wine. It seems to be an aptly relaxed bunch, affected by and affecting the almost familial environment. Impressive stuff for a chain.

The Food
Ortega does what Spain does so well, tapas, so it’s the perfect place for those who can never make up their mind and who cast envious eyes over their fellow diners’ plates. There’s plenty of choice, with a lot of Spain represented on a menu that stays - refreshingly for a tapas restaurant - relatively grease-free. Overall it’s good quality stuff that uses decent enough ingredients to make decent enough traditional tapas.

A chicken and chorizo paella (£4.50) is good, with deliciously al dente and creamy rice flavoured delicately with rich stock and the tiniest hint of saffron. The cubed chicken is tender and the chorizo adds a nice richness but could do with being a little spicier. The brochetas de pollo (£4.75) isn’t particularly imaginative but does taste good thanks to immaculately cooked chicken that’s skewered with juicy chunks of red pepper and red onion and seasoned well.

A selection of ham and cheese (£5.95) are excellent, and if there’s more than a few of you it might be good to order a couple as they prove popular. The serrano ham and the chorizo are of good quality, with the ham boasting that great balance between salty and sweet and the chorizo having a piquancy that should have been in the paella. They’re complemented well by a soft Manchego cheese, a decent side salad, some rustic bread and big plump olives.

Also worth trying are the whitebait (£3.95), delicately deep fried and served with an equally delicate garlic mayonnaise, as well as a faithful version of patatas bravas (£3.25), with potato cubes thankfully separated from the rich, tangy tomato sauce so they retain a bit of crisp. Perhaps the best of all however is the tostada con queso de cabra (£4.95), an oozing sliver of excellent goat’s cheese served on crusty toasted bread and dressed with a sweet orange blossom honey that complements the tartness of the cheese perfectly.

If you have room, desserts are good too. The creme Catalana (£4.50) is the Spanish version of the creme caramel, with the difference seemingly just in the name. It’s every bit as good as it should be with light, vanilla-infused custard sitting appetisingly beneath a crispy and sweet caramel top. For those with a very sweet tooth, try the torta de chocolate (£4.50), an incredibly rich mix of milk, dark and white chocolate mousse layers atop an equally sugary biscuit base.

The Drink
As well as an impressive selection of traditional cocktails that take you right through the day from Tequila Sunrise to Sex on the Beach (all well made and excellent value at £6.50), Ortega has an impressive wine list, full of the kind of wines you’d expect from a place like this. Whilst the list won’t let you be too extravagant, a £29 Rioja is worth a try, but the better value options can be found with more reasonable price tags. A Chilean merlot at £14.95 for the bottle is the best example, being well worth the price thanks to some great berry flavours offset by the tiniest hint of tannin.

The Last Word
Ortega offers good examples of traditional tapas, with well cooked dishes served at decent prices. However, the restaurant’s best aspect is its great atmosphere, which transports just the tiniest hint of Spain into the warm embrace of Leadenhall Market.

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