Pillars of Hercules should have been named after Sisyphus instead: just as the mythological king had to restart rolling a boulder up a mountain every time he reached the top, every night this old pub has to fight an uphill battle against its brash competitors to attract customers. But all is not lost...

The Venue
Small and snug, Pillars of Hercules has an enviable position in Greek Street. Its façade betrays its very old beginnings from 1733, although only the ground floor is now a pub. The space is small but well arranged over split levels. Towards the back there is the largest area, which is also the cosiest as it is the furthest from the door. Towards the front, natural light floods over traditional tables and chairs and, in between front and back, there is the bar and mini booths for two on the opposite side, separated by wood and frosted glass partitions. The aesthetic is traditional without being flamboyant, reassuring if not beautiful.

The Atmosphere
The Pillars Of Hercules has a surprisingly high-brow following: Dickens cited the pub in a Tale Of Two Cities and acclaimed British writers of today like Ian McEwan and Martin Amis have made it their occasional retreat. Intelligentsia aside, the pub seems to be frequented by small groups of middle-aged men coming in for a quick chat over a pint. The main attraction is its lack of conformity – there’s no neon sign, slick furnishing, loud advertising and brash design typical of nearby restaurants and bars. This is a simple pub that attracts locals, tourists and hipsters alike.

The Food
Traditionally British and uncomplicated, the menu offers handmade pies (£8.75), gourmet burgers (£7.25-£9 - try the spiced chicken breast with salsa for a kick), traditional sandwiches (£4.50-£5) and mains (£6.70-£12) like sausage and mash, rump steak, lamb shank in red wine and more. The evening platters (£6-£12.50) switch things up by including a Moroccan platter, nachos and barbeque chicken wings. The desserts (£4.55) return to type, though, with apple pie, sticky toffee pudding and chocolate sponge cake.

The Drink
The draught selection (£3.50-£4.30) is more than acceptable, with Staropramen, Stella, Kronenbourg, Murphy’s and Hoegaarden flanked by a good bunch of ales (£3.40-£3.60) including Wainwright, British Bulldog, Finchcocks and Broadside. A dozen wines are sold at very competitive prices: £3.50-£4.15 per small glass, £4.80-£5.70 per large one, £14-£21 per bottle). Sparkling wine and champagne (£19.50-£54) is strangely abundant, possibly due to the acclaimed writers celebrating book deals. A handful of cocktails are available only in pitchers (£13.50), a concession to the Soho cocktail-crazy tourist crowd.

The Last Word
Pillars of Hercules has to fight against its competitors, largely because a traditional pub is not everyone’s first choice on a night out in Soho. However, this pub is far from in decline. It has always been at least frequented - if not massively popular - and it will keep on being so for a long time to come.

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