Kitsch, on trend and oh-so-cool, Powder Keg Diplomacy pushes going out on St John’s Hill up a notch or three.

The Venue
Powder Keg Diplomacy is the very epitome of cool. The theme is firmly centred around British colonialism with a pub and dining area that both work a really funky design aesthetic. To the front of the venue is the bar area with a dark and cosy colour scheme of dark woods and exposed brick. Design touches include sofas, antique-looking coffee tables and red granny lamps for the kind of setting you can’t help but sink into for a long evening’s drinking.

The dining room is set inside a beautiful conservatory to the back of the space. A predominance of white is lifted by lots of plants, giving it an almost jungle-like appeal, and explorers hats fill a shelf while brass instruments create a funky light fitting. The tables are simple dark wood and unadorned by tablecloths but this space still seems effortlessly upmarket.

The Atmosphere
Although Powder Keg Diplomacy hasn’t been open for very long it appears that the locals have already embraced it as the spot to be seen in. Booking a table at the weekend is, therefore, advisable. The staff make a massive effort to fit in with the theme, wearing cool clobber with a Prohibition-style edge. They are also incredibly friendly and welcoming in that way that only neighbourhood bars can be.

The Food
The menu at Powder Keg Diplomacy is British (naturally) with locally sourced, quality ingredients. For starters, the game roulade (£7.50) is a little bland and lacklustre in flavour but it is rescued courtesy of delicious ‘drunk cherries’ that add a deep berry and alcohol flavour the dish, creating some much-needed depth. The medley of mackerel (£7.50), however, is a show stealer. Although small in size, the flavours are incredibly good and well balanced with the mackerel presented in different ways. The peppered mackerel fillet with sorrel cream is simply done and allows the mackerel flavours and slight saltiness to really shine, although it’s overshadowed by the smoked mackerel pate, which is light, creamy and has a pleasant aftertaste that lingers in the mouth. It’s served with a chilled beetroot soup, which is pleasantly earthy but doesn’t really add anything to the already excellent dish.

For main courses, the pork belly (£15) is delicious with a well-sized piece of meaty, sweet pork belly with crisp crackling. It’s served with nicely seasoned celeriac mash, with a slightly sweet apple undertone, and cider sauce, which is a nice twist on the usual apple sauce. The sage and onion dumplings are the weak link, being a little too crisp and insubstantial, but the overall impact of the dish is excellent. Alternatively, the roast venison haunch (£16) is less impactful on flavour, although the meat is excellent quality and is cooked perfectly to show off its delicate pinkness. The honey roasted parsnips are lacklustre, as are the pink apple fir apple potatoes; however, the Meantime Stout sauce does do a good job of tying it all together.

For desserts, the cheese board (£8) is a great example of the dessert staple but is overshadowed by the frankly incredible ginger three ways (£6). The warm ginger pudding is light, sweet and has a faint kick from the heat of the ginger, which is warming and ideal on a cool winter’s evening. The stem ginger cheesecake is wonderfully sweet and creamy without being sickly and the homemade ginger sorbet crackles in the mouth as you eat it, which is a fun way of ending your meal. It is highly recommended even if you are stuffed after your main course.

The Drink
The wine menu at Powder Keg Diplomacy has been very cleverly put together and sticks to the colonial theme with bottles from America, England, Australia, New Zealand, Canada and, yes, even India. At £19.50 the spicy Indian Zinfandel is worth a try if only because it’s so rare.

However, the wine list is overshadowed by a carefully conceived cocktail list. Priced mainly at £7.50, the choice focuses on unusual and innovative mixes to get people talking. A chilli and lemongrass daisy, for example, adds a kick of chilli to give the popular drink some oomph. However, it’s outshone by the excellent sherry cobbler with Amontillado sherry, pineapple and orange pieces and Maraschino liqueur. Even if you don’t usually like sherry, try this drink – it has a heady undertone of sherry but it’s sweetened drastically for a very pleasant finish.

Beer drinkers are also well-catered for - brews from the likes of Meantime and Dark Star on draught are supplemented by hard-to-find bottled selections.

The Last Word
You only have to look at the likes of Worship Street Whistling Shop and Zetter Townhouse to know that Victorian-inspired bars are bang on-trend at the moment. Powder Keg Diplomacy has done a good job of bringing their own twist on this theme to St John’s Hill.

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