A foodie fortress on the manically busy Uxbridge Road, the award-winning Princess Victoria has a commitment to food and wine that puts it on a par with the very best gastropubs in the capital.

The Venue
With its semi-frosted windows and huge physical presence, the Princess Victoria can be somewhat daunting to the uninitiated. If you live out west though, this is one of the best foodie pubs for miles around and, once you step inside and see how beautiful the pub is, you’ll be glad that you took the plunge. You’ll also notice that those frosted windows shield punters from the hectic nature of the main road and the odd random lairy local who might be hotfooting past – a very good thing.

The main entrance leads into a space that has a couple of communal leather booths to one side, before you enter into the bar which has towering ceilings, a huge original bar that acts as a centrepiece, and a Victorian design vibe – the building actually dates back to the 19th century. Further in you emerge into a grand dining room, which acts as a formal restaurant space. Here you can marvel at the portraits of important-looking fellas who wouldn’t look out of place in the National Gallery and absorb aesthetically pleasing original features like the decorative tiled skylight that lets natural light flood into the room.

A herb garden to the very rear, where punters are encouraged to enjoy a cigar after a long, boozy meal, and a stunning function room upstairs, which acts as a lovely spot for a wedding reception or a private party, complete what is a remarkable package.

The Atmosphere
A suitably savvy mix of young professionals, foodie folk and well-heeled locals of all ages attend in great numbers. The level of service from all members of staff is admirable.

The Food
A crack team of industry pros are behind this operation and there’s a dedication to food that goes way beyond even the most competent pub operators. Links with esteemed suppliers like Elwy Valley farm and The Ginger Pig, as well as plans to develop their own supply chain via their own farm shows they’re hugely passionate about the food they serve. And you don’t have to sit in the dining room to enjoy their menu – moreish bar snacks like the lamb scrumpets (not currently on offer), crispy pigs’ cheek and chorizo Scotch egg (£3.50 each) can be munched on while you sup a pint in the front section too.

Starters include a divine potted Dorset crab (£10.50) that arrives with a semi-translucent clarified butter topping. The crab is super-fresh and the creamy mixture it is paired with is just perfect. Alternatively a chorizo and char grilled squid salad (£9.50) served in a big glass bowl with bouncy salad leaves and a tomato-based sauce is another winner, with the chorizo’s soft, pliable texture showing it’s more than likely been made in-house.

Steaks are highly prominent on the menu and the quality of the juicy, marbled Angus rib-eye (£17.95) marks it out as a definite speciality. More unusual options include a mackerel escabeche, a dish that sees twin fillets of mackerel with blue-green tiger stripes, served with an exceedingly tart amber-colour sauce made out of pepper and saffron among other things. Sliced yellow peppers add extra colour to the plate and new potatoes give it some stodge. It’s a very well-executed dish that’s ideal for summer.

For dessert, the cherry clafoutis (£6) is dished up in a portion that looks enough for two. Kind of like a cherry bread and butter pudding, this is too good to leave anything behind, even if you’re stuffed.

The Drink
With a wine list that’s made even broadsheet journalists gush with praise, the Princess Victoria has a list of bins to keep even the fussiest wine snob happy. And should you wish to discuss the menu at length, they’ll send over the dedicated sommelier. A first for a pub? Quite possibly. Glasses start from £3.80 and bottles from £15.90. Their savvy list of dessert wines also marks them out as connoisseurs of the grape.

A pub like this wouldn’t be complete without a decent selection of ales. While there’s only 3-4 on offer, on a recent visit the selection did include Timothy Taylor (house ale) and the most excellent Junction from Sambrook’s in Battersea.

The Last Word
With its exacting levels of service, a commitment to excellence in both food and drink and a beautifully restored setting, the Princess Victoria is undoubtedly one of the capital’s finest foodie pubs.

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