For years, Islington has been famed for its vibrant bar scene but it isn’t until recently that the stretch towards the Highbury hinterland has stood a chance of catching up with the Angel end of the area. However, with the launch of Public House, the balance is being redressed and it’s not before time.

The Venue
Even standing outside the bar it’s clear that the Public House is no average boozer. Its smart exterior looks better suited to a florist whilst inside devotees of Loungelover’s style will feel right at home. The lighting is low and casts a cosy amber hue over the small tables and groups of decadently mismatched furniture. Rugs are scattered over the polished wooden floor and although one large rug running from the door is a law suit waiting to happen this really is nit picking as the rugs (far from seeming contrived) add a charming touch.

Sideboards are piled with bona china plates and kitsch ornaments, low slung, plumply stuffed armchairs cluster around coffee tables and a working piano perches in a corner at the far end of the bar. The Public House also has plenty of stools pushed up against the long bar – perfect for putting the world to rights over a few cocktails.

The Atmosphere
If you imagine a party at a fabulous house that you can only fantasise about owning that’s been styled by your most fashionable gay best friend then you’re some way to recreating the stylish informality of Public House. The piano often comes into its own later in the evening and drink after drink makes its way across the bar as glossy and groomed Islingtonites unwind after another long week of commuting hell and grey skies.

The Food
The Public House is a very sociable affair so it’s nice to see that the food has been designed to match the temperament of its regulars. Platters are a popular choice and are reasonably priced at £7.50 for the ham or cheese boards (or a combination of the two) that are accompanied with bread or oatcakes respectively plus plenty of that all-important chutney.

During the day, giant salads (£7.50) are popular but if you’re passing and feeling peckish you’ll be hard pressed to resist popping in for a trio of macaroons or a generous slice of carrot cake or Victorian tea cake with its unique French lavender cream (all £3) accompanied by a pot of one of their speciality teas such as white peony with pink rosebuds or Japanese Sencha Fukuju, a Japanese green tea.

If you’re after something more substantial there’s plenty of comfort food too from the Chef’s Risotto of the Day (£8) to slices of pork belly spiced with ginger and garlic and served with crispy crackling and wilted spinach (£10.50). Desserts are delightfully unusual and include a pot of lavender creme brulee served with an almond macaroon (£6.50) and wafers served with the creamy toffee tasting dulche de leche (£4.50).

The Drink
Bars that pay this much attention to the food offering sometimes don’t stand up to scrutiny when it comes to the drinks but thankfully the Public House does. Spirits with mixers cost a reasonable £3.90 for a standard measure and the menu suggests more unusual mixers to combine with all the popular spirits so it’s a good way to get out of a drinking rut and try something new. Suggestions include Zubrowka bison vodka with organic fresh apple and rhubarb juice (much more original than a vodka and tonic or cranberry) and Jim Beam Rye with elderflower presse.

The wine list is extensive and well priced, ticking off Malbecs, Pinot Noirs, Riojas and Sauvignon Blancs whilst never exceeding £30 a bottle. But bars this stylish tend to concentrate on cocktails and the Public House is no exception, offering inventive recipes that come in at a reasonably priced £7.50. The tongue in cheek menu is divided into Starters that include Bloody Soup (tomato, spices and vodka blended with hot or cold water depending on the weather) and a classic Champagne cocktail that combines vanilla bitters and fig liqueur with Champagne and a sugar cube rubbed with lemon zest.

The Medium Bodied and Damn Tasty Potions (try saying that after you’ve had a few) range from Breakfast at Hendricks Part 2 (Hendricks Gin muddled with cucumber, rhubarb and apple juice and a touch of apricot jam) to the Whisky Daisy (bourbon shaken with lemon, lime and yellow chartreuse). Make sure you don’t end the night without one of the Dessert options though. Most tempting are the Indulgence (brandy and orange ice cream served with a glass of French dessert wine) and Sazerac which is made to an early nineteenth century recipe of cognac, rye-led bourbon and bitters that’s served in a tumbler that’s been rinsed with absinthe. Definitely one for the road.

The Last Word
The name is misleading – the Public House is far from being a bog standard boozer – but that’s what works to its advantage. Some of the capital’s best bars operate on word of mouth recommendations and within minutes of setting foot inside the bar you won’t be able to resist pulling out your mobile and rounding up all your mates. Don’t hold back. This is one secret well worth sharing.

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