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The Londoner's Guide to London
08 August 2008
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Punch Bowl

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41 Farm Street,
Mayfair,
London,
W1J 5RP

0872 148 2270 Calls to 0871 numbers will be charged at a fixed rate of 10p per minute (from a landline or a mobile) no matter where you are within the UK. This number is unique to viewlondon.co.uk.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byJafar Hassan11/06/2008
What was just a quaint, traditional English pub in Mayfair was thrust into the limelight in early 2008 after Madonna and Guy Ritchie were rumoured to have bought it. After that turned out to be just media speculation, it has since emerged that Guy has indeed bought a share. But what will a Hollywood revered British director do with such a pub?

The Venue
Off Berkeley Square, one of the busier parts of Mayfair, Farm Street is a small road, hushed and uninhabited except for The Punch Bowl and the many business parking garages that line the street. Two big box windows sit either side of the double door entrance, shedding a warm light upon the dark timber bar and bare wood floorboards.

The pub was built in the 1750s but fails in its endeavour to represent an authentic Georgian charm, despite the wooden furniture and traditional candlestick holders. Several portraits of 18th-century political figures embellish the plain looking cream walls, and suspended over one of the blackened fireplaces is a painting of Winston Churchill helping to remind customers of the pub’s long heritage.

The Atmosphere
The Punch Bowl was formerly frequented by old men looking for an unhurried environment to enjoy some of the real ales on offer, but since Guy Ritchie took over in early 2008 the pub has put more emphasis on quality food and has extended the list of fine wines. This might explain why on most days small groups of local professionals can be seen here having their lunch break with a bottle of wine. Nonetheless the veteran real ale drinkers are still regularly found sitting at the bar.

Table service is provided by the pleasantly friendly waiting staff who will even bring your pint of beer to you. At any moment a celebratory cheer could erupt and disturb the still, ambient sound of social chatter and slight clinking of cutlery, as birthdays are often enjoyed here. High profile celebrities including Robert De Niro are rumoured to have paid a visit to the pub.

The Food
The freshness of the ingredients found in the dishes at The Punch Bowl can be instantly recognised in the taste, but the prices are quite steep (if in keeping with the Mayfair locale). The organic smoked salmon with herb salad and capers served with brown bread is presented like it would be in a gourmet restaurant, and is accompanied by half a lemon wrapped in cloth so the seeds don’t fall into your plate. The salmon itself is very thin and similar in texture to the ready made slices from your local supermarket; fortunately there is far greater flavour here. Chopped red onions and whole capers mixed in a herb salad are a nice complement.

All main dishes range from £9.50-£14.95 and desserts are £6 and although the portions are not typically pub-sized they are reasonably filling. Whilst they still serve the likes of sausages and mash and the Aberdeen Angus burger, The Punch Bowl provides a healthy alternative to the unwholesomeness of typical pub food with diet-friendly meals such as steamed asparagus salad and goat cheese and vine cherry tomato tart. If you just want some light bites to go with your drink, The Punch Bowl serve hand cut chips priced at £3.75.

The Drink
The wine list has been significantly improved since Guy Ritchie’s takeover, and there is a good selection of Tuscany, French, Spanish and New Zealand wines. Bottles are presented on an elegant table-high wine cooler stand, subtly recreating a wine bar atmosphere. A small glass of wine costs from £3.70 to £4.50, with larger glasses costing about £1 extra.

Beers are reasonably priced for the location at £3.30 a pint. Popular beers such as Fosters, Kronenbourg, Strongbow and Guinness are placed alongside ales and bitters such as Bombardier, Old Speckled Hen and Best Bitter. The wide choice of beers, wines and even spirits – as they do a decent range of whiskies and vodka - ensures that the dining area does not overshadow the bar.

The Last Word
The rumours of Madge and Guy’s ownership have people arriving in droves to this antithesis of the modern London bar. The Punch Bowl stays true to its customers’ need, but sometimes lacks in charm and character. However, if you end up sat next to Mr De Niro add another couple of stars to the rating!
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