50-54 Blandford Street,
Marylebone,
London,
W1U 7HT
(020) 7935 0835
The ViewLondon Review
Cocktails are a big deal in London and it takes a lot to impress the most experienced cocktail aficionado. Fortunately, even if you think you’ve seen it all, the molecular and scientific wizardry of Purl will make you excited all over again.
The Venue
Purl is a bar which is tucked away from all the obvious parts of Marylebone, so you don’t stumble upon it, you seek it out. Beneath a cafe called Tasty Corner and equidistant from Bond Street and Baker Street tube, this basement bar makes you feel like you have stepped back in time. Descending the stairs, you cautiously peer in and find a bar which has low ceilings decorated in the finest of wooden fixtures. A booth with an old-fashioned phone greets you as you enter, and there’s a sign above it which says ‘Orders’. Although the bar is small, it has a wealth of intriguing spirits and bitters displayed in bottles. A large slab of ice sits behind the bar, and when you order a drink, the ice is hand picked from the slab. The best feature of the bar is the antiquated-looking globe which opens up to show that it contains more ingredients to make their beautiful cocktails.
In the bar area, there are a couple of areas to sit which are luxurious and very opulent. In a corner there’s a small area that looks like a library, but it is actually a wallpaper effect creating a convincing illusion due to clever lighting. Making your way to the bathroom, you think that’s all the space the bar has, but turn the corner and go down the stairs and there are four white alcoves suitable for larger groups. Purl is actually deceptively big and extremely comfortable. You feel as if you are in a private members’ bar without the hefty membership fee.
The Atmosphere
Purl is supremely chilled whilst maintaining an air of sophistication. The music varies from swing to hip-hop. Its main asset are the barmen who know cocktails intimately and will make them to your specification. Their cocktails are almost a science experiment and they will happily explain how they made their creation.
The Drink
When you visit Purl, you should do so for the cocktails. They’re priced between £7-£9, and for the quality of the drink that you get, it’s an absolute steal. If you really want to be suitably impressed, try Mr Hyde’s Fixer Upper (£9). As you wait for your drink to be made, you are handed a small brass goblet filled with the hand carved ice. Suddenly you see a stream of smoke pouring out of a metal wine cooler and the barman tells you that your drink is inside. Placing your hand into the white abyss, you will find a glass potion bottle with the name of the drink delicately placed on a tag around the neck. Pop the waxed sealed cork and pour the maroon-colour liquid into your glass. This injects apple wood chip smoke into your drink, giving it a smoky aftertaste and the presence of cola reduction and 23-year-old rum is a curiously satisfying combination.
Their Negroni (£9) is simple but smooth. The orange peel shaving completes its purity. For those with a sweet tooth, the Myrtle Bank Punch (£8) is bright red in complexion and quite sweet with a touch of tartness. All in all it is well mixed, as is every cocktail made here. Other oddities include the Backwards Bellini (£8) which has lavender bitters infused into a sugar cube, Prosecco and a pomegranate foam. Also the Champagne and Caviar (£9), which mixes home-made mango and pine caviar in a glass of Veuve Clicquot, sounds intriguing.
There are other drinks on offer, if you’re not feeling brave enough to try the cocktails, such as canned and bottled beers. But, if you order a tin of Guinness (£3.50), you’re in for a treat. Purl doesn’t have any beers on tap but for Guinness they have a device that shoots electronic waves through it, making it taste like it’s on draught. You’ll be pleasantly surprised with the result.
Wines start at £14.75 a bottle or £4 a glass for house, with Sauvignon Blanc and Chilean Merlot on offer. Prosecco is £6 per glass and £18.50 per bottle, with more expensive options costing £55 for Veuve Cilquot Brut and an impressive £195 for Krug Grande Cuvee.
The Last Word
Purl has stepped up the cocktails stakes by making revolutionary cocktails for un-astronomical prices. With its sumptuous, decadent surroundings, you feel privileged to have the opportunity to visit and sample its truly sensational concoctions.
Purl has been reviewed by 5 users