Famous and grand surroundings suggest the glamorous history of Piccadilly is alive and well at Quaglinos, so it’s a real shame that the food fails to do its reputation justice.

The Venue
The restaurant was built on the site of the original Quaglinos, one of London’s wonderful old-school society restaurants and a nod to its past is found at the reception area with pictures 1950s screen sirens. Reopened by Terrance Conran in the 90s, it became famous again as a fashionable celebrity hangout, and with such an impressive setting it’s easy to see why.

A dramatic staircase sweeps down from the bar to the large sunken restaurant, where a high ceiling is adorned with fabulous Art Deco style frosted glass and mirrors. There’s lots of brass, fresh flower arrangements and some interesting painted pillars. You’ll still find the once much-coveted Q-shaped ashtrays on the tables, although now holding salt and pepper.

The Atmosphere
It’s disappointing that the sparkle and buzz of Quaglinos has pretty much disappeared. While you don’t have to fight tooth and nail to get a table anymore, neither will you overhear any juicy snippets of celebrity scandal over cocktails. That said, it still tends to get quite busy and live jazz helps to set the mood, although you’ll struggle to hear it and each other over the din of very loud chatter and clinking cutlery.

The Food
Mainly modern French fare with lots of seafood, the menu is varied yet pricey. Starters range from £6 - £12 and include a deliciously light and creamy goats’ cheese and caramelized onion tart, and nicely seared scallops served with pancetta and summer truffles. Other seafood options include oysters, langoustines, lobster and caviar at almost £50 for 30 grams.

Mains are less impressive. On a recent occasion, the steak had to be sent back twice before it came back cooked as specified, by which time the soggy salmon and sole cake, and rubbery tagliatelli served with pesto, rocket and roast tomato had been reluctantly eaten. The desserts are better, in particular the vanilla creme brulee and impressive passion fruit Pavolva.

The Drink
The wine list is extensive and varied, and there is a wide range of malt whiskies and liqueurs. Expertly prepared cocktails are served in the bar - the Mojito and Bloody Mary are particularly tasty.

The Last Word
It feels a little flat and soulless, which is quite a feat considering its reputation and the great old-fashioned decor. Let’s hope someone injects some life into Quaglinos again soon.

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