What to expect from the restaurant of a sports club, branded by a world famous sports name and located in Canary Wharf? Happily, Reebok Restaurant is a very good surprise.

The Venue
Located on the second floor's internal balcony, the view is striking: a tall glass wall allows you to take in several skyscrapers at a glance, with a good dose of greenery in the middle, setting the scene as the financial power merges with a feeling of lightness. However, if you dissect the venue, you may be disappointed to notice details reminiscent of offices, like the basic carpeted floors, the standard ceiling tiles and an unattractive brushed finish on the walls. The furniture - quite basic but consistent - partially makes up for it, although you wish the space (open towards the corridor at the back) were more atmospheric.

The Atmosphere
If you expect health fanatics in lycra, you will be disappointed. Lunchtime is the busiest hour at Reebok, with suits in transit everywhere. In fact, this restaurant seems to have little to do with the sports club itself, bar the health 'spin' on most dishes, and could live very well as a stand-alone venue. Local workers appreciate the decent prices, outstanding service and healthy options, and flock in groups or alone.

The Food
The open-plan kitchen on the right speaks of quality whilst the bar on the left exemplifies good service. The dishes are a symphony of well-aimed creativity that lean towards the healthy side but not in an off-putting way.

The Mediterranean breads with olive oil are a bargain at £2.10 and even the carb-haters should try the delicious nut, olive and roasted tomatoes slices. Within the starters (£4-£6), the pan-fried tiger prawns with garlic and smoked pepper mayonnaise could be slightly more flavoursome but are superbly cooked. The chunky puy lentil and parsnip soup is hearty, lean and just delicious.

Within the mains (£10-£13.75), the grilled trio of fish is light and delicate but the accompanying spicy pearl couscous steals the show with a wonderful aromatic bouquet. The warm falafel salad is no less tantalising: fresh leaves are tossed in a light and luscious dressing while the pearl couscous, falafel balls and feta provide the substance.

The desserts (£5.15-£5.50) are indulgent, though the small sizes keep things under control. The chocolate fondant is rich and the melted core is a delight to look at, but there's a slightly strange after-taste and combining it with mint sorbet doesn't quite work.

The Drink
The wine list is very comprehensive: bottles start from £16.90 rising gradually to £86 (glasses are £4.35-£7.40 for a small glass and £5.75-£9.90 for large one). However, the fresh juice menu is more in tune with the sport club surroundings, and you can pick from a long selection of different combinations, from pear, melon, mango and banana to carrot, apple, orange, kiwi and ginger (£3.30-£5 for a large glass). Smoothies (£3.90) and multipower fitness shakes (£2.70-3.70) are also available.

The Last Word
Reebok Restaurant mixes different worlds well. The corporate image of Canary Wharf, the distinctively healthy drink list and the balanced food menu result in somewhere that's a pleasure to visit.

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