Part of the Biagio Restaurant Group, this swanky Italian in the heart of London mixes up a range of Neopolitan classics that mama would be proud of with some modern and subtle twists.

The Venue
Ristorante Biagio is centrally located in Piccadilly, a heartbeat away from Piccadilly Circus and close to Green Park. Blink and you will miss this place as the restaurant is tucked in between several high street stores and cafes dotted along Mayfair. Once inside, an impressive modern interior waits with a relaxed informal bar on the ground floor with contemporary colours and sleek interior which is matched upstairs by the split level yet narrow venue. Modern bamboo imitation looking tables is set off against subtle canvasses adorning the walls which work well and the music is not too overpowering so as not to drown out the idle conversation of diners.

The Atmosphere
Men in suits and the local established Italian community mix in with couples who have strolled in from the shopping delights on the street. With a few more people knowing about Biagio, this could be a lovely place for an after work dinner.

The Food
There’s a range of classic Italian dishes featuring pastas to pizzas and lasagnas. However, Biagio has extended the culinary bow to include other dishes which are traditionally not so Italian. For starters the sea bream fillets are fleshy and well cooked but lack inspiration as does the piquant tomato sauce that is served with it. The vegetable crostini, a medley of grilled vegetables including aubergine, asparagus and peppers are perfectly al dente and well seasoned but could have done with a little more dressing or say a balsamic reduction to get the taste buds flowing.

Mains serve up a wealth of choice with a little imaginative flair. The rack of lamb is moist and well cooked but extremely rich on the palette. A few mouthfuls and you have to admit defeat. This comes with braised cabbage and port wine jus. The cabbage could have done with a little less time in the pan but the jus is rich, sweet and a good compliment to the meat. Meanwhile the Tagliata di Filetto di Manzo, slices of beef fillet with a balsamic dressing is decent, but the rocket leaves are not enough as an accompaniment. It is advisable to order at least two sides with your main dish. The crispy potatoes are fluffy and presented in bite sized croquette shapes and the buttery courgettes are a good effort.

Finally for dessert, authentic desserts including panna cotta and tirimasu are lined up against a more modern choice. Try the warm apple tart which is beautifully caramelised and extremely light on the palate. This is served with some genuine Italian gelato which is heaven on a spoon and one of the highlights of the menu. Let’s face it - if they can’t serve up a decent ice cream, then who can? The hazelnut and chocolate gateau with a creme anglaise is soft and tasty.

The Drink
A decent wine list of over a dozen reds and whites is tribute to Biagio’s attention in highlighting good Italian wines from several regions. In fact there a few that can be chosen by the half bottle which is an added bonus and a few bottles thrown in from France Chile and Australia for good measure. Sample the fresh and fruity Orvieto Secco Campogrande Antinori which is a good choice to have with anyone selecting a meat dish. There’s also an excellent choice of spirits and aperitifs if you are in the mood to just let your hair down.

The Last Word
The fare is decent and the dishes are subtle and imaginative, but Biagio are still finding their feet a bit on the food front. Yet with a bit more work this promises to be a good alternative to dine in amongst the more popular venues that are scattered around Mayfair.

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