Passion. That’s what you’ll find in Rocket’s newest outlet, in London’s ever-evolving Canary Wharf. It is the third such venture of this vibrant enterprise, where there is passion for good food, inspired cooking and fabulous atmosphere.

The Venue
Rocket claims to have a great view of The O2, and it’s true - from the upstairs terrace, you can see the arena perfectly, as it appears to hover like some alien craft. The view from outside downstairs is of the docks, but it’s sadly obscured by hoarding. However, there are proper wooden tables and comfortable black woven chairs with cream seatcushions, an efficient and attractive bar area and extensive wine and cocktail lists. Who needs a view?

The Atmosphere
At 7pm on a Tuesday, Rocket is buzzing, both outdoors and in. Lots of bright young things, as you’d expect given the location, but everyone seems in high good humour and the overall ambience is warm and happy. Staff are friendly and knowledgeable about the dishes on the menu and Rocket’s policy is that any tips go to straight to them. They deserve it.

Downstairs the decor is bright and airy, with cheerfully striped seats and mouth-wateringly well-stocked bar. Tear yourself away and continue upstairs - admiring the wallpaper design of gigantic Penguin classics - and emerge into the restaurant proper, where steel wine racks divide up the space and you can drink in that view of The O2.

The Food
Rocket's chefs are enthusiastic and highly talented. They get their food from, as far as is possible, sustainable sources and are keen to use local and seasonal produce. Rocket is justly proud of its pizzas - at 13 inches across, roughly the size of a dustbin lid - which are stone-baked and thin and crispy. The range of imaginative toppings includes: smoked black pudding, prawns, pancetta and green chilli; smoked chicken, caramelised baby onions and cherry tomatoes; and spicy Mediterranean sausage with broccoli, gorgonzola, tomato and mushrooms. There are also two kinds of calzone. Prices range from £8 to £12.75.

But let’s not get ahead of ourselves, for the starters definitely deserve perusal. A dish of fried baby squid (£5.85) is generous and delicious, the squid cooked perfectly and nestled into a bed of rocket - fittingly! Creole prawns (£6.75) have an intriguing accompaniment of snow peas, roasted sweet corn and courgette, served with a zingy sour cream and lime dressing garnished with okra tempura. It’s rare to see okra on any menu, so plaudits to the chef.

More plaudits for a main of rump of lamb (£14.85), served with roasted vegetable salad and fregola pasta. The latter is rather like giant couscous, but makes a nice change from potatoes. But the star of the show is undoubtedly the chef’s salad (£12.85). It looks rather like the dome of The O2 on a plate and combines Saint Agur, goat and bocconcini cheeses with pears, avocado salsa, beetroot and seeds with a parmesan and pinenut dressing. It is terrific and you must try it.

A raspberry and vanilla cheesecake with raspberry sauce (£5) is a triumph, too. It’s not too big - a relief if you are going to tackle one of those pizzas or the awesome chef’s salad - and is delightfully creamy without being too sweet. A pear, white chocolate and pear cognac trifle (£5) is lighter than it sounds and served elegantly in a martini glass.

The Drink
Talking of martinis, Rocket offers as many permutations as you can possibly imagine - and probably some you can’t. The bar staff will also happily suggest a concoction if you’re not sure what you want; just tell them what you like.

You will definitely like the winelist. Rocket says it has one of the best value winelists in London and with a Vermentino - aromatic, with a dry finish - as the house white for £15.50 a bottle and £4 a glass, you can’t argue. The house red, a Principe de Viana from Spain, is the same price. There is also a Gruner Veltliner, a much underrated white, for £20 and a Sancerre for a bargain basement £28. House Champagne is a Baron de Marck at a reasonable £36 and Mumm Cordon Rouge is £39.50. If, at Rocket’s suggestion, you want to push the boat out, the winelist urges you to try Comte Audoin de Dampierre at £70. For lighter wallets, however, there is a biscuity Bisol Brut prosecco for £26 a bottle and £6.70 a glass.

The Last Word
A lively atmosphere, good value, tasty food and drink and happy staff - Rocket’s reputation should really take off.

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