460 New Cross Road,
New Cross,
London,
SE14 6TJ
0872 148 5078
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.
The ViewLondon Review
An oasis amongst the alternately cooler-than-thou hipster hangouts and slightly rough-around-the-edges venues of New Cross, the Royal Albert is a gastro pub from the Antic pub company that makes an effort to provide both quality dining and drinking experiences.
The Venue
Dimly lit and with a somewhat old-fashioned feel to its interior, The Royal Albert is divided in to a grand yet comfortable bar area - complete with mahogany leather sofas, ornate lamps and dark wood furnishings - and a dining room that is almost as large at the back.
The Atmosphere
The pub is busy, but possesses both the acoustics and subtle lighting necessary to avoid seeming offensively noisy or over crowded. The clientele is varied – attracting both young arty types from the nearby Goldsmith’s university, as well as older, more sensibly attired folk.
The Food
A starter of bubble and squeak with chorizo and poached egg (£5.50) is a winning combination of tastes and textures; the hearty, full flavour of the bubble and squeak is complemented nicely by a thick slab of tangy sausage, and mellowed out by the smooth density of the poached egg yolk. Plaice goujons with lime aioli (also £5.50) come with a fresh, thick and crispy batter, yet retain the delicate flavour of fish.
A main course of braised shin of beef, duck fat potato cake and greens (£12) is a delight - the meat melt-in-your-mouth tender, and the duck fat adding a gloriously rich, buttery dimension to the potato, all pleasingly moistened by a rich, meaty jus. A beef burger – served with jalapeno relish and chips - (£9) is unfortunately a disappointment, with a somewhat lacklustre patty that is overly reliant on the relish for flavour, and promisingly chunky yet dry chips.
Dessert is excellent, with the option of either a dark, treacly, and moist sticky toffee pudding and vanilla ice cream (£4.50), or a lighter, fragrant and crumbly orange and almond cake - also served with ice cream (£4). Prices here are on the whole slightly higher than those of your average pub-grub, but the food is arguably of a restaurant quality that renders them justified.
The Drink
There is a medium-sized wine list with prices ranging from £13.55 to £20 a bottle, and all wines available by the carafe as well as the glass. Amongst the selection is a Villa Anita Tempranillo (£13.95 a bottle), a medium-bodied Spanish wine with a heady, fruity nose that complements some of the richer dishes perfectly.
An average pint is around the £3.70 mark, with some of the more niche ales being slightly pricier. Amongst these options is BrewDog’s Punk IPA (£4.50) - a pleasantly fruity and lively pale ale that has recently been growing in popularity. A large range of other draught beers and ciders are also on offer, including well-established favourites such as Frulli, as well as a number of guest ales from breweries such as Thornbridge and Harviestoun. Bottled beers are also of a high standard, with both Chimay red and gold available.
When it comes to spirits, it is premium all the way – with a selection of vodkas that includes the excellent Polish-made Zubrowka, as well as Grey Goose and Finlandia. House spirits are priced at £2.50 for a single measure.
The Last Word
Overall, the Royal Albert is a great option for some top quality food and drink in the New Cross area. The sophisticated yet cosy setting makes it a perfect venue for a relaxed chat with friends, or even a date.
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