Recuperate after a day in the park at this spacious Victorian boozer turned gastro pub.

The Venue
The Royal Inn on the Park is situated in a prime spot on the north side of Victoria Park, an area known to enthusiastic estate agents as Victoria Park Village, this recently renovated eatery melds the appeal of a high-ceilinged, velvet-curtained 19th century pub with a brand new kitchen and dining area serving a range of British classics with impressive gastronomic flair.

In the old saloon you cannot escape the feel of a real east London local. Fireplaces abound, and wooden-benched booths provide quiet and intimate pockets in which to relax, play games, enjoy a drink with friends, and sample some of the rather superior bar snacks. Tall windows overlook the park and contribute to an airy but stoic atmosphere. The walls are adorned with large mirrors, and the elaborately carved bar gives the front of the venue the feel of a very cosy suburban pub.

It is all change however at the back of the bar. A newly opened dining area is brightly lit and decorated with Olympic advertising posters from the 20s and 30s. It is chic without being overly trendy. The sleek marble floor and open kitchen lend themselves more to an upmarket city diner than a red brick local. The synergy might sound drastic, but it works well, and the place is made all the more attractive for an après-park wind-down given the expansive and well-appointed outdoor seating area.

The Atmosphere
Given the contrast between the two main aspects of The Royal Inn on the Park, there is a similar, but perhaps less-marked dichotomy among the clientèle. Some have clearly been coming here for years, propping up the bar and sharing gossip and intrigue, while the pub also attracts a swathe of the area’s young (usually creative) professionals. This dynamic is obliterated on sunny weekends however, when the place gets very busy (but not overcrowded) with locals, park-goers, dogs and children. The staff are friendly and helpful across the board - polite, knowledgeable and affable without being intrusive.

The Food
The seasonally changing menu has something for everyone, with an impressive range of starters (£5-£7), five or six well-chosen mains (£10-£17), and some simple but tasty desserts, all well balanced and served with aplomb. The duck liver pate is particularly good, and is served with freshly toasted home-made caraway bread and piccalilli neatly presented on the now ubiquitous oak board. The mains are all very hearty affairs, including kedgeree and toad in the hole, while for the seriously hungry the roast leg of lamb comes boned as two slabs of wonderfully tender meat served with delicious dauphinoise potato and green beans. Every dish is well prepared, and freshly cooked with first-class ingredients - nothing too fancy, but certainly a cut above most pub food.

The Drink
This being a pub, there is an extensive list of drinks: guest ales, an array of imported lagers (Litovel is always on offer) and a nice cider are all on tap, and there is a great selection of spirits and whiskies. The wines are mainly new world with a couple of Spanish and French classics thrown in for good measure. The house merlot leaves a little to be desired but should you venture further down the list, the extra couple of pounds spent will reap definite dividends.

The Last Word
With its superb location overlooking Vicky Park, and its contrasting yet complimentary layout, The Royal Inn on the Park perfectly bridges the gap between traditional local and modern eatery. Come for a Saturday lunch and spend the whole day here.

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