Rules Cocktail Bar is set above the oldest restaurant in London, founded in 1798. And, although expensive, it has retained its classic appeal and passion for mixology. It’s just a shame that it attracts so many tourists and theatre-goers.

The Venue
Rules is pure classic British heritage styling – and genuinely so given its history. Unlike the downstairs restaurant, the bar is reached by a side-entrance that isn’t in any way grand, where you will meet a doorman who you’ll need to get past. Inside, you’ll find swathes of dark wood and a rather ugly red patterned carpet. The red leather-backed chairs and matching red sofas are reminiscent of a gentleman’s club and the granny lamps add a certain cosiness to the space. However, it’s the bar that acts as the star of the show - opulent with a huge ornate mirror behind, gold leaf detailing and an array of interesting-looking spirit bottles, it looks like a proper old school cocktail bar.

The Atmosphere
Although you can’t just walk into Rules Cocktail Bar and you have to get past a person on the door, it’s not in the same league as some of London’s members' clubs and more pretentious bars. Be well dressed and respectful and it should be fine – and if you go outside of the weekend when it’s quieter, it will increase your chance of getting in. Once inside, you’ll find that there are a few tourists (albeit well dressed tourists) and theatre-goers who have heard of the history of this venue whilst many Londoners have dismissed it in favour of the latest, trendiest drinking hotspot. And that’s a real shame. The staff are very knowledgeable, if a little old school at times, and they have a passion for their art. A passion that is clearly evident in the quality of the drinks produced.

The Food
With a restaurant downstairs, the only food available in the cocktail bar are bar snacks, albeit bar snacks with style. Think oysters, quail’s eggs, crab salad and steak tartar priced between £7 and £12 and you get the idea.

The Drink
There’s no huge cocktail list here. Ten. That is the magic number at Rules Cocktail Bar. And they’re not overly fancy, they are just twists on the classics, delivered with an understated style. However, they do come with a big price tag of £13.50 a drink – and yes, it hurts.

If you want to try a strong signature cocktail then opt for the Rules 98, which contains champagne, Tanqueray gin and Merlet pear liqueur to produce a very well balanced drink that allows the flavour of the gin to shine (a theme of this bar), complemented by the dryness of the champagne. The flavour of the pear is subtly sweet – almost floral – and just adds a hint of flavour to the alcohol without drowning it out. However, if you’re not taken with the options on the menu you can request any classic and really test the skills of the bar staff. Widely considered to be the ultimate test of a bar person’s skills is the simple martini. And yes, they do mix an immaculate version of the drink, served with nothing but a simple twist. The balance and the clarity of the drink are perfectly executed and, although it’s not the cheapest martini you’ll find in the capital, it’s certainly up there with some of London’s top bars.

The Last Word
Steeped in history, Rules Cocktail Bar is certainly authentic and the skills of the bar staff indisputable. It’s just a little stuck in the past and the theatre-goers cheapen it somewhat. With world-class hotel bars charging almost the same money for a drink, it has stiff competition but it still provides a very welcome bolt hole in this part of town.

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