Cute décor and a great garden but what strikes most about The Secret Garden is the food: a mere £8 will buy you the best looking, most amazing pork tenderloin for many miles.

The Venue
The area near the entrance is the most attractive with a successful mix-and-match of vintage couches - from baroque-inspired to 60’s rattan - an open fire and a trademark tree decoration of sorts, which involves painted branches and butterflies and beetles climbing on walls. The dining area is less striking as contemporary printed artworks clash with the rest of the room. The sizeable garden is again a successful mix of different inspirations.

The Atmosphere
The Secret Garden has good intentions and big ambitions but some nights of the week are quiet. The weekends are likely to be packed, though, as bands and DJs provide the entertainment. And grand plans for bonfires, indoor and outdoor theatres and big parties are a work in progress.

The service also has to find its feet and there are niggles - the food takes ages to arrive, the tables are sticky and yet…the food is amazing.

The Food
The pub menu (starters £3-4.50, mains £6.50-10, sharers £5-7, sides £1-2.50) is deceptively short and simple but there’s no doubting the capabilities of the chef. The prawn skewers confirm it: served on a wooden board, the presentation is great and so is the flavour. Other items are less spectacular: the nachos are salty and while the guacamole is excellent, the salsa overpowers it. Likewise, the chips are not the crispy perfection you expect from someone slow-cooking pork tenderloin so exceptionally well. Wrapped in Parma ham, the tenderloin is stylishly presented on a large plate with boulangere potatoes, an excellent cumin and carrot puree, a cabbage ball and the most amazing cherry sauce. The presentation, flavour and price are astounding.

Desserts (£2.50-3.50) like the light, back-to-basics apple and pineapple crumble are another not-to-be-missed highlight.

The Drink
In comparison the drink list appears unexciting: there are only twelve wines, but at least they are cheap (£11.50-20 per bottle; £3.20-3.75 for a small glass; £4.20-4.90 for a large), and their Australian bottles are particularly palatable. Many classic cocktails (£4 during happy hour, £6 at other times or £13 by the jug) are also available. The beers are relatively common but fairly priced at £3.10-£3.65 for draughts (Wandle, Doombar, Heineken, Amstel, Kronenburg ) and £2.25-3.40 per bottle (Peroni, Budweiser, Corona, Becks and others).

The Last Word
The Secret Garden is a dichotomy: part honest but imperfect pub; part bargain restaurant with spectacular food. One thing’s for sure – given the right backing the chef might single-handedly turn Secret Garden into a sought-after gastro.

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