The Courthouse Doubletree by Hilton,
19-21 Great Marlborough Street,
Soho,
London,
W1F 7HL
(020) 7297 5571
The ViewLondon Review
Soho Sky Terrace Bar is a good idea in theory - a temporary rooftop bar open just for the summer with big screens, cocktails and a barbecue; however, it all seems a bit rushed together and doesn’t quite live up to the glamorous surroundings of the Courthouse Doubletree Hotel in which it resides.
The Venue
The Courthouse Doubletree by Hilton is a beautiful setting for a terrace bar. A grand hotel a stone’s throw from Oxford Street, the oyster-shell chairs in reception, waterfall features in the lobby and funky retro seating areas all lend a certain excitement to what you’ll find on the roof. And first impressions are rather good. The rooftop is a decent sized space that feels light and airy and has a corner-positioned bar that looks clean and appealing. Flashes of plants and grass also catch the eye – a welcome respite from the cold, hard buildings of Central London.
Divided into three areas, to the left are high stools and tables, in the middle are rather artistic white plastic cube stools with matching tables shaped like buttons and to the right are chairs and tables better suited to dining. Intermingled with plants, water features on the walls and heaters (this is the British summer we’re talking about, after all) it works well.
Unfortunately, as you settle in and take a closer look at things you start to uncover a less appealing side to the bar. Two large dominating TVs were a good idea to pull in people during the World Cup but look a little out of place now. And if you sit behind the TVs you’ll see the boards they’re backed onto are pieces of unattractive wood – not a great viewpoint if you sit here. An interesting feature of the bar is a large cover made from an inflated canvas that looks rather oddly like an upside down bouncy castle. Although it’s a good idea in theory as it makes the bar an all-weather venue, who really wants to sit on a roof on a grey rainy day anyway and it just means that when it is sunny if you’re looking to catch some rays you’ll be unable to. Plus, it has had a rough patch-job in places, held together by ugly areas of grey gaffer tape. Finally, the astroturf that looks so appealing from afar looks cheap and a little tacky up close, almost making you yearn for a proper beer garden. But hey, don’t forget the nice views of, well, a building covered in scaffolding next door.
The Atmosphere
The atmosphere at the Sky Terrace Bar is laid back and relaxed. The staff are friendly and efficient with taking orders and it’s certainly a chilled out place to have a drink. The clientele here are well turned out and dress smartly, not looking out of place whilst walking through the lobby of such a nice hotel.
The Food
The real appeal of Sky Terrace Bar is the barbecue. The prawn chilli coriander with garlic aioli (£7.50) is a marvel for the price point. Three skewers generously filled with plump, meaty prawns that have been perfectly cooked come in a delightful chilli coriander sauce that isn’t hot but does add a pleasant depth to the flavour of the prawns with an underlying taste of coriander that comes through in each bite. The aioli has a strong punch of garlic but doesn’t overpower, instead offering a creamy accompaniment. Enjoy with thick chips (£3.95) which are generously portioned with a crisp exterior and fluffy middle.
Equally good is the beef burger with chips (£11.50). They warn you before that the burger is medium-well done as it’s barbecued; however, the meat is still tender and flavoursome with a thick patty that doesn’t in any way taste charred. Some cheese and a nice, tangy salsa finish it off nicely in a lighted toasted bun. The accompanying crisp stringy fries are equally good. It’s just a shame that the sauces come in the same sachets as you’d get in Burger King, which looks cheap, as the quality of the food is indisputable.
The Drink
When you go to a bar where the cocktails are priced at £11, you expect the quality to match. Unfortunately, the strawberry daiquiri (fresh strawberries, Havana three year rum, sugar, lime juice and strawberry liqueur blended over crushed ice) is a poor example of the drink. Appearing more like a Slushie, the drink itself tastes watery and more like a fruit juice - and an expensive fruit juice at that. The insipid liquid barely even holds the flavour of the strawberries and there is certainly no flavour from the alcohol. The same is true of the Neopolitan (Zubrowka Bison vodka, sugar and a drop of milk over crushed ice with Kir Chambord), which looks unappealing and watery in a plain glass with no flourish. A couple of blueberries is a poor garnish and the drink itself is too sweet and again tastes watery with no hint of alcohol coming through.
Luckily, the Pimm’s is a triumph – a delicious example of the drink filled with garnish like fresh, sweet strawberries, mint and orange slices. It looks good, it tastes good. And if you really think the cocktails are overpriced then the wine offers excellent value for money with a handy tasting guide on the menu. The Boschendal Pavillion Shiraz is a full-bodied red for £7 a glass. Just be warned that you’ll be looking at paying £5 for a bottle of Bud, Corona or Peroni here.
The Last Word
The Soho Sky Terrace bar could have been great. Unfortunately, there are some areas where it’s lacking. Come for a cool glass of Pimm’s on a hot summer’s day and enjoy the excellent barbecue food and you won’t be disappointed.
Soho Sky Terrace Bar has been reviewed by 1 users