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The Londoner's Guide to London
04 December 2008
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Swimmer At The Grafton Arms

Venue Image
Venue Image
13 Eburne Road,
Holloway,
London,
N7 6AR

0872 148 0846 Calls to 0871 numbers will be charged at a fixed rate of 10p per minute (from a landline or a mobile) no matter where you are within the UK. This number is unique to viewlondon.co.uk.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byCressida Johnson20/02/2008
Swimmer at the Grafton Arms, as well as being a bit of a mouthful, stands out as an unusual pub because it serves top quality modern British food whilst maintaining the unpretentious setting of a real drinkers’ pub.

The Venue
Just off the Holloway Road, Swimmer at the Grafton Arms is by far the friendliest place to drink in the surrounding area. A rare find among the intimidating Irish joints and dives.

Housed in an attractive old building on a residential street, the public saloon feels immediately inviting. To the right of the bar is an informal dining area facing the open kitchen, from where delicious aromas waft, tempting in food orders. Low-slung chandeliers and candles lit on every table provide a calming ambience. The overall feel is faded grandeur - at the back end there is an ornate fireplace below an ostentatious mirror and in centre stage, the wood-panelled bar is trimmed with brass fittings. Swimming-related posters and newspaper cuttings adorn the walls and a stuffed otter represents swimmers from the animal kingdom. There is also a beer garden, which gets rammed in summer and forms a heated smoking area in cold weather.

The Atmosphere
This neighbourhood pub attracts a mixed crowd. There is a hardcore of ageing rockers who are regulars, as well as old men, young professionals and a bunch of fashionable youths who come for the excellent, sixties-heavy jukebox (and possibly the handsome indie-boy barman).

The bar staff are friendly and patient with customers who can’t decide between the massive choice of drinks.

The Food
The Swimmer at the Grafton Arms short menu reads like a who’s who of British favourites - sausage and mash, homemade burgers, steak and chips, and more exotic seasonal offerings such as roast pheasant with sauteed potatoes and greens for around £10.

Starters such as moules marinieres and crispy fishcakes are pricey at around £7, but portions are large, so they make good small meals.

Creme caramel and fruit crumble with custard are on offer for dessert. The food is unfussy, leaving fine ingredients and competent cooking to speak for themselves.

The Drink
Among the vast array of drinks on tap at Swimmer at the Grafton Arms is Fruli strawberry beer, Litovel lager, Fullers Honeydew organic beer, Champion ale, Erdinger Weiss beer and Scrumpyjack cider. A lengthy list of wine is available by the glass or bottle and offers amazing value for money –the priciest bottle is £14.75.

The Last Word
Having resisted the gastropub trend, this local pub remains a friendly, relaxed boozer. Swimmer at the Grafton Arms serves top quality food and a superb selection of beer and wine, to a soundtrack of Dylan and the Stones.
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