Terrace Bar and Food

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Venue Image
Upper Ground, National Theatre,
Southbank,
London,
SE1 9PX

(020) 7452 3000

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byKelly Hussey31/08/2011
It may not have the most inspiring name in the world, but this is a good – and sustainable – dining option if you’re attending a show at the National Theatre.

The Venue
On first impressions, there’s not a lot to the décor of Terrace Bar and Food. Based in the National Theatre, they already have people flocking here so don’t need to push the boat out to ensure bums on seats. The wooden floors are highly polished, and the large array of simple dining tables flanked by black and green chairs is a little ‘blah’. And the lime green sofa seating is borderline-ugly. Still, the ceiling is something of a centrepiece and they’ve lightened the place up with pretty flowers. They also have a very nice outdoor space. It’s only when you discover that the plants are bee-friendly and the outdoor seating has been created by a free-range furniture designer, Ryan Frank, that you start to get an insight into why this place is a bit special.

The Atmosphere
This restaurant and bar is almost entirely filled with theatre-goers so you can feel a little left out if you’re not rushing off to see a show. As such, the mix of couples, friends and families – young and old – have that sense of anticipation about them, which makes for a nice, upbeat ambience. It’s just a shame that Terrace Bar and Food feels a little transient and like it’s just been put there to wring a few more pounds out of visitors to the National Theatre.

The Food
Up until now, Terrace Bar and Food may feel a little lacklustre, but it’s the menu that changes all that. For a start, this place is a part of the Sustainable Restaurant Association and they make sure that all of their food waste is composted. And then there’s the menu itself... Imaginative and well-priced, it’s something of a surprise.

The menu is made up of small plates, priced at £3 - £7.50, and the dishes sound as good as they taste. For example, the chicken skewers with harissa (£5.40) comprises generously portioned chunks of tender chicken with a pleasant – but not overpowering – heat from the harissa that really tests the tastebuds. Alternatively, the steamed asparagus with herb mayonnaise (£4) is a very nice veggie option. The asparagus is tender with a pleasant bite and the mayonnaise has a creamy, rich flavour that isn’t so overly herbaceous that it starts to taste floral. However, the highlight are the albondigas (£5.25) consisting of several fat, meaty braised beef meatballs with a delightfully well seasoned saffron and tomato sauce.

The Drink
Terrace Bar and Food keeps their sustainable edge strong in the drink selection by offering locally brewed draught beers that help to support the community, such as Meantime's London Lager and Pale Ale. They also make sure that their ethos is well represented in their wine list, which is very much skewed towards old world bottles and sustainable vineyards. They even have a few more unusual English bottles, which is always nice to see.

The Last Word
First impressions don’t always count. Terrace Bar and Food may not seem like much on the face of it but persevere and you’ll find a very ethically-aware and decent restaurant and bar.
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