90 Crystal Palace Road,
East Dulwich,
London,
SE22 9EY
(020) 8693 2130
The ViewLondon Review
The Actress is a buzzy pub in East Dulwich that serves British-style pizza and a comprehensive selection of wine, ale and cider.
The Venue
Walk into The Actress and your first impression will be muddled: this is definitely a pub and yet it is nothing like it. The decor (and the smell) make you think more of a sleek and jazzy pizzeria than a watering hole. The good thing is The Actress is both. The space is cleverly designed: wooden floors, a marble U-shape bar, a fire oven in the corner and a successful array of complementary chairs and stools, part bistro, part vintage, part contemporary, are arranged around small tables. The colours are demure, warm and as welcoming as the weather forecast scribbled with chalk on the walls towards the kitchen. A sizeable outdoor patio – a summer favourite - adds more space.
The Atmosphere
The Actress is almost too lively and yet the pub is tucked away in a residential neighbourhood. A local favourite, The Actress is often packed with regulars in their late twenties and thirties, especially at weekends and for the midweek footie, which gets displayed on a large drop-down screen.
The Food
Pizza (£8-£9) is the main event at The Actress. Some of them are non-traditional but you can order them by the slice if you’re not sure. This may be the case for the rosemary potatoes, red onion, roast garlic and stilton, or for the almost sacrilegious beetroot, ricotta, feta, sweetcorn and pea shoots. The more authentic versions include buffalo mozzarella and cherry tomatoes, but - traditional or not - the chorizo, mozzarella, peppers, tomato, fennel salami and pecorino is a recommended burst of flavour. The Sunday pizza is again outlandish: roast cauliflower puree, horseradish, crumbled roast potatoes, ricotta, roast beef and beans - this is recommended only to the adventurous.
Other options include corn on the cob with parmesan, paprika and lime (£4); aubergine roasted with chickpeas, mozzarella and parmesan (£4.50); whole baked sea bass (£10); and a selection of salads (£4-£9). Desserts (£1.50-£6) even nod to the pizza theme with a chocolate, hazelnut and banana calzone on offer.
The Drink
The food is a clear favourite for the regulars but the drinks are no less appetising. The wine list contains sixteen bottles (£18-£23.50) and two wines on draught (The Actress has a penchant for being unconventional). You can either buy a small glass (£3.50-£5.50) or a half-litre carafe (£10-£15).
The beers are more traditional: you can pick from Vedett, Murphy’s, Moretti, Heineken and other draughts (£3.10-£4.50 a pint) including several good ales, or opt for bottles like Pacifico, Estrella, Modelo Especial and Negra Modelo. There is also plenty of cider to choose from.
The Last Word
Cool, vibrant and happening, The Actress is an all-round winner. Slightly whacky pizzas and wine on tap may not be for purists, but if you’re open-minded and hungry, the chances are you will love it.
The Actress has been reviewed by 2 users