Having undergone an impressive refurbishment in 2007, The Albion - a former grubby boozer - has been reborn into something of a modern gastro classic.

The Venue
Tucked away in Islington’s leafy Barnsbury, The Albion is a discrete pub that doesn’t need to shout loudly to stand out. Delicate, sage walls set the tone for a leafy, laid-back space that’s elegant, intimate and boasts a beautiful mahogany bar. There’s a slightly chintzy, old English feel with floral toilets, carnations on tables and polished glass, but make no mistake - this pub does the straightforward, traditional approach very well.

The Atmosphere
Friendly and informal, The Albion accommodates families kicking back over the Sunday papers as well as larger groups of younger, upwardly mobiles enjoying a bottle of wine in the outdoor patio area. Anything goes, and the staff are the kind to go out of their way to keep smiles on faces. There’s a distinct warmth here and just enough liveliness to render background music unnecessary.

The Food
With a chef boasting Marco Pierre White training, it’s the best of British and then some. Starters include a velvety, if rich, potted duck on sourdough, and fresh seaside prawns dunked in homemade mayonnaise with plenty of chunky brown bread and butter. Coming in at around £5, it's excellent value for money.

Mains start from £12, and feature anything from collar of ham, smoked haddock fishcake with spinach and poached egg, or even a whole shoulder of lamb for three people. There’s a good veggie option, too - the popular spinach and mushroom pie with Stinking Bishop cheese. Given the belt-loosening starters, it may be wise to opt for the delicate grilled plaice (although this is still hefty) smothered in parsley butter, or the braised beef marinaded in Black Sheep bitter. The fish, though slightly too buttery, is delicious and the beef tender enough to eat with a spoon. Sides are unnecessary but available, with piping hot mint peas or triple cooked chips at £3, bulking up your plate further.

After all this, you'll be hard pushed to squeeze in a dessert, but if you're brave enough the sticky toffee pudding for £5 is excellent, as is a cheese platter of Neal’s Yard favourites.

The Drink
Wine and alcohol choices at The Albion are vast and well thought out, with a good selection of sparkling wine and Champagne, a choice of around ten decent reds and whites, plus several rose and dessert wines.

Prices of wine begins at around £14 a bottle, and it’s £3 for a pint of Fosters. There’s even a cocktail menu, here - don’t miss the Blighty Mojito, a contemporary spin on the classic that fuses cucumber with the typical mint, rum and sugar classic.

The Last Word
Charming service, robust comfort food and a Mansfield Park style elegance that defies the 21st Century, The Albion achieves something quite unique in light of fancy food fads. It’ll certainly give other North London gastro haunts a run for their sterling.

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